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PartSelect Number PS11731356
Sold individually. This bulb is a 7 watt appliance incandescent light bulb.This appliance light bulb is two inches long. It is used for many clothes dryers.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!
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Removed the front (two screws at bottom).Marked all the wires for the door switch, bulb socket and sensor and unplugged.Removed the barrel hanger (four hex screws two each side).Cleaned and vacuumed internals.Removed the front hanger and barrell.Started with rear rollers, removed old rollers and washers. Using 1/2" box end wrench loosened roller shaft nuts on rear of bracket.Installed in reverse shafts, washers, rollers, snap rings.Installed new theromstat on new element, Removed screws from old element.Swapped wires from one post on old element to new. Installed new element.Reinstalled barrell, and front hanger. Realigned new belt, making sure all clearences around idler pulley.Free wheeled barrel, no binding.Re-attached sensor and switch leads. Reattached front.Plugged in and tested successful. Took two hours and three beers.
I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker. I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
First let me start out by saying Parts Select was by far the best pricing and had SUPER FAST SHIPPING! Literally had the product within 2 days (regular shipping). Matter-of-fact only needed the round white piece for the ice maker door and they sold just the piece without having to buy the kit. Everyone else even Maytag would only sell me the whole kit. Anyway...as if you couldn't tell I am a woman (28) who fixes nothing. Would much rather pay someone to do it : ) However I took it upon myself to try and fix this after bugging my husband for a year. Needless to say I Did it and it took maybe 5 minutes. You do need a torch screwdriver (star shape) and yes it was in my purple girlie tool bag! Just a matter of taking out 5 screws taking the old door/flap off and replacing it! Take the time to clean while everything is already apart too. Very easy , if I can do it anyone can!
removed front cover 2 lower screws. once front cover was off, the front drum support bracket was visable. removed 4 screws that hold that in. the drum is now loose and not supported in the front. pulled drive belt tensioner back to release belt. removed 2 top cover screws to get more vertical room to lift drum out. once drum was out, i used a snap ring plyers to take retainer ring off to remove damaged rear drum support rollers. replaced both rear rollers. also replaced drive belt and door lamp. the bearing in the left roller had seized and torn a big hole thru the roller . assembled in reverse order. now drum is nice and quiet
The ice maker panel on the freezer door detaches by removing two screens at the bottom of the panel behind the drip tray. My son held the panel while I removed three screws holding the ice chute cover. The ice chute door is attached to a spring loaded bracket. I only needed the actual door, but it was just as easy to replace the insulation and the seal. The seal was starting to show wear. I then replaced the ice chute cover and tested the ice maker. With everything working correctly, I reinstalled the panel in the door.
Took the rear bottom panel loose , the ice maker and water dipenser valve is in the right corner. Turn off water line to the refrigerator , and also unplug the electric from the outlet. It is easier to take the ground wire loose from the valve bracket now , before taking valve out of the bracket. take the two water lines that run to the door and the ice maker loose, then remove the main inlet line. Once you have the water lines off, then you can remove both electrical plugs from the electric coils. The water lines that run to the door and the ice maker cant be confused , because they are two different sizes , so they will only fit the correct side. The electrical plugs are pretty simple as well as, the wires are the same color as the coils, so its fairly easy to see which one goes where. The replacement process is pretty self-explanitary , just reverse the order. Just as a hint of advice , have a sponge or mop ready to clean up the water that comes out of the lines when you remove them. I also changed the drum wheel in the front of the ice bin, this process is not easy if you let the blades and spacers fall apart , as they have to pretty much have to be in correct order , or your ice bin will not crush ice , and you could possibly bust the bin into pieces. The process is not really hard , just pay close attention to what is coming off from where!!! There are two bolt on the bottom of the front cover , take them loose and pull the cover forward from the bottom, then lift a little , should come off. Then the metal front cover should be exposed, ther are two bolts in it as well , remove them , and the front should be loose , this is when you hold the auger and keep an eye on the blades. There is also a nut , right in the center of the wheel you have to take loose , hold the auger then take the nut loose with a 1/2 in. wrench. Once you remove the nut the drum pulls right off the auger. When going back together , make sure the ice crusher blades all line up correctly , as the blades wont work at all . They have to slide back into the blade pivot bracket (slot made into the plastic bucket front). As I said before , be sure and pay close attention , and this process will go easily. The drum is marked front side , or this side out, be sure its installed correctly , as the ice will not feed right. The first cycle of the ice maker making ice will probably be only 1 or 2 cubes , but the second time around you will have a full set of 8 , the water lines get air in them while they are unhooked so you wont get a full cycle the first time.
I first read about others with the same problem on your web sight and figured if they could do it so could I. Anyway the directions are a little hard to read but it was very informative and straight forward. I took the advice of one of the do it your-selfers when it came down to removing the spring. Be careful not to loose it. Everything was there that I needed and went on without a hitch. Now it was time to see if my repairs were done correctly. Pow! Everything worked. This is a great web-sight to buy parts if you are a do it your selfer. Easy to follow instructions.
I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit.The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.
the entire assembly was removed using some small hex and torx wrenches. I am not a refrigeration expert and had no diagram but this was very intuitive to replace all the parts above. I figured I would replace all these other related parts while I was digging around in there.One thing to watch out for is to label the wires going into the switches before you take the old one out. You do not want to wire them up wrong, so use a sharpie to label the colors before disassembly.Also take the time to clean the parts in soap/bleach to clean all the years of filth that accumulate.I replaced all the parts above and cleaned everything well in under 20 minutes. Saved a fortune thanks to partselect!
I replaced the defrost timer, and then the defrost thermostat. I diagnosed these two items because it would get cold/freeze great for about 12-24 hours and then would start to warm back up. I pulled the cover off that covers the evaporator coil and found it to be frosted up. This told me that the defrost timer probably wasn't working properly. Decided to replace the defrost thermostat while I was in there as a precaution. It was much much cheaper than having to replace a side by side!!
Removed front panels and swiveled lid upwards. Loosened tensioner, removing belt and then carefully extracting the drum. Replaced 2 drum glides on underside of front panel. Next 2 rollers, which appear to unscrew, but do not do so. You must remove the retaining ring (surprise! ...and 2 screw drivers later). This was the longest and most frustrating part of the whole ordeal. Then just reverse the process for reassembly. This was my first electric dryer repair and it really wasn't too bad. Online docs I found were somewhat helpful, but really luck and perseverance. I did save probably $300 in replacement costs, which is quite satisfying. .
Unplugged the machine. Removed the front cover by removing the 2 Philips screws near the bottom of the front of the machine. Unplugged the igniter. Replaced it. Put this all back together.Note: Fire will not stay on while front cover is off or door is open.
I needed to diagnose what the issue was. Several different parts can cause the heat in the dryer not to work. I tested each fuse with an Ohm meter and determined the Thermal fuse was displaying incorrectly on the Ohm Meter. So I disconnected the Thermal fuse's two plugs and taped them together (thus bypassing the fuse...just to validate). I turned the dryer on and bingo...heat. After that it just took 5 minutes to replace the Thermal Fuse.
taking apart and putting new one on is very very easy but the magnet pin that open and shuts had to work with for a while i have big hands and small space but once put it together very easy assembly.
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