11728056-1-S-Whirlpool-W10841094-Burner Receptacle
11728056-1-S-Whirlpool-W10841094-Burner Receptacle 11728056-2-S-Whirlpool-W10841094-Burner Receptacle 11728056-3-S-Whirlpool-W10841094-Burner Receptacle http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/44177.gif

Burner Receptacle

PartSelect Number PS11728056

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Element will not heat.
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    $9.79
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    $1.63
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    $8.16
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 43 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 43
 

217 of 298 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set

CustomerJon from Oakley, CA

Surface elements quit working

Drilled out old and broken hold down clips, installed new ones(4). Cut old wires attached to surface plug in block, striped wires, and attached new plugin kit(4), warmed up heat shrink with a hair dryer, put in new drip bowels, the stove is like new.
I ordered the parts on line early one morning, the next day they were at my door and installed that day, everything that I ordered was there, and fit properly.

Way to go Part Select.com

Jon

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51 of 59 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerJonathan from Lilburn, GA

8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out

One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

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25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerRaymond from Rome, PA

Burners were working intermittenly. Sockets arching.

First, I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it from the wall outlet. I then removed all of the burners and pans. I removed the upper part of the back cover on the stove to reveal the wiring harness, from the reostats to the burners. I made sure that the length of the new harrness was the same as the old one. I then checked the color of the wires to make sure they corrosponded with the old ones.
( Before removing the wires, I used a sharpie permanent black marker and wrote the color of each wire next to where it connected.) Then I removed all of the wires from the connectors on the reostats.
I then removed the screws from the bracket that holds the wire harness to the stove and the one from the short green grounding wire. This way you can remove the top of the stove by raising it and sliding it to the left. I then removed the screws from the burner sockets and removed the harness. I then installed the new harness in reverse. As with the grounding wire and the wire connections on the reastats.
The only problem I incurred was that the steel bracket that hold the burner socket to the stove top was to long. The burner would not plug into the socket far enough to make a good connection. So I replaced them with the ones in "The Newer Style Plug-in Block Kit". ( I had purchased these not realizing that the sockets came on the wire harness). So it all worked out in the end. Overall It is a pretty simple job with one philips head screw driver and a little muscle to move the stove.

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9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Burner Receptacle

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerPhillip from Pekin, IL

One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

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10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerScott from Pleasant Valley, CT

Burner was arching or not heating up.

I followed the instructions on removing the existing burner, recepticle, and section of wire. Then followed same instructions for reinstalling above new parts. The instructions were simple and straight forward. The only gluich was that I had to drill out the rivets holding in the old hold down clips. I drilled these out with an 1/8" bit on the burner side off the opening.

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