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PartSelect Number PS11722098
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplugged the washer and removed the two screws at the bottom corners of the control panel and identified the source-plug of the lid switch assembly. I followed the switch and found two metal clips along the way that I pried off with my fingers. The grounding wire was screwed to the frame behind the switch and a little tricky to get to, but with a wrench and some flexibility it came out easily, but don't drop that screw! I removed the old part, and installed the new assembly by attaching the ground wire again and pressing the metal clips back onto the frame. After fastening the control panel again, the washer tested fine and works like new.
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Diagnosed using a screw driver pushing down on the lid switch. The machine would start if the switch was pushed farther than depressed by lid. Once the part arrived, removed the two screws securing old switch with a phillips screw driver. Then slipping my hand between the basket and the lid using a pocket screw driver to depress one side of electrical plug and my thumb on the other, unplugged from socket and removed from machine. Install the new switch assembly, correctly routed the harness and plugged connector into socket. Repair complete.
My husband actually did the repair while I watched, but I can tell you the basics. He unscrewed the screws at the back of the top panel (where the control knobs are located), then popped back the control panel, revealing two metal clamps. He removed clamps (remembering which way they were to be reinserted), unplugged the old switch, and then slipped off the whole machine casing. He removed the old switch, and installed the new switch with no problem. Our biggest recommendation -- have enough room to wok on the washer. We had to work in a tight space, making it difficult for him to access under the washer casing to install the part.My husband's comments about the repair -- "pretty easy". And it saved us approx. $180 on a service call. We were happy about that!!
I read through some of the previous repairs, and decided to order the part and do it. I didn't find it as easy as some would lead you to believe. I removed the two top front hold down screws and raised the top part of the washer, then removed the four rear 5/16 sheet metal screws, This allowed me to pry up the rear access panel, which separated from the outside washer housing. I was then able to reach access to the lid switch and wiring harness. After removing the two lid switch screws, a 5/16 screw securing the wiring harness, along with two spring clips the switch and harness came out. I quickly replaced the switch and harness in the reverse order and reassembled the washer. The washer works fine now.
2 Screws in back release the control panel. This flips back and reveals the 2 clips. Pry them back with a screw driver and the whole body of the machine comes off easy. Don't forget to release plug from lid switch. 2 screws remove old switch and use them to fasten new switch. Put machine back together in reverse of how you took it apart. It is real easy. Took me 20 minutes start to finish. When trying to put back body of machinedo it with lid open so you can look through and see where bottom lines up. Good Luck!
Online repair tips already listed are pretty accurate, however I did have a little difficulty getting the control panel to lift up. I didn't realize that the two screws recessed at the back of the machine needed to be all the way out before it would move. It doesn't swivel or twist as the previous directions said. you have to shove the entire control panel backwards to slip the hooks out of the slots before you can pick it up and move it out of the way. Once you have that lifted you can get to two brass straps that have to pop out of the top of the machine before the back panel and the front housing can separate. Disconnect the plastic connection to the control switch before you attempt to move the housing. After I got that far it was very easy to replace the old switch with the new one. One screw on the grounding wire and one clip holding it in place along the top of the machine and that's it! Once you get the repair done the operation is done in reverse. The only thing you need to be sure and do is to make sure the notches at the bottom of the machine match up to the slots on the housing otherwise the entire housing is very unstable if you try to move the machine, the fill tube doesn't sit correctly, and the tub isn't in the correct position. In that case take it apart again and try to get the slots and notches matched back up,
easly off vidio from compt
We googled the problem and the how-to-repair came up on the laptop screen and what part we needed to purchased. We ordered it and installed it just as utube explained. And it works like a charm. Yeah!
I had a repairman come in several months ago and he said eventually I would have to have the lid switch replaced. He wrapped some electrical tape around the old switch and left. He did say when I wanted to replace it, it would cost me $69 for a service call and $129.00 plus tax for the part. I am a 69 year old female on a limited income and when I went to your site I found the part for $35.00 which included shipping. I watched the repair video several times and was confident enough to replace the part myself. I did and I found the hardest of the installation was getting the washer pulled out from the wall. Shipment was here in four days. I am very pleased with the results.
I went online and found the Partselect.com website. I found the potential cause of the washer not advancing through the cycles and ordered the Lid Switch Assembly.It arrived via FedX in two days.I watched the online repair video two times, and followed the instructions. Repair went well; but the washer cabinet is awkward and I was lucky to have my teenage son help me with maneuvering it off and on the machine. All and all, I am thrilled that it works after the repair and would highly recommend Partselect.com
My 14 year old son unscrewed the top part of where the switches are on the machine for controling water and off and on button. He unscrewed the two sides and removed the top part then moved the drum and took the old switch off and put the new one on. It took about 7 min.
Remove power(unplug) open console remove clips take off cover remove pump clips remove pump from hoses install new pump install hoses replace cover (good luck) replace clips replace console Reconnect power (plug in) test to find you need a lid switch order lid switch replace lid switch in the same fashion as the pump wash clothes until something else breaks!
I watched the tutorial video on the web which was more than anything i can imagine of.Very detail, helpfull and it makes my fixing very easy.After replacing those two items the machine begins to work without problem.
I can add relatively little to the excellent writeups already offered by others for lid switch replacement in this washer, but diagnosing the problem is not perfectly well outlined in all.In my case, it was very straightforward. The starting symptom was failure of the washer to either drain or spin in any cycle (regular, delicate, hand wash) although it agitated fine. A little thought revealed that both drain and spin depend on the lid being closed, no matter which cycle is selected. This tended to exclude a timer problem (which might be only on one of the cycles) or a pump problem (since the machine should still spin normally if you advance the timer manually). I can't guarantee this is perfect reasoning, but it worked here for me. It therefore made sense to look for the lid switch, which is on the right side of the opening to the tub and is tripped by a nylon pin that sticks down from the right side of the lid. Feeling just under the metal top plate of the washer at the right side of the tub opening, it was immediately obvious that the switch assembly was very loose. Its top completely broke free from the two screws holding it in as I felt for it. This left the switch, which still worked perfectly well, hanging in midair so the lid pin couldn't trip it. I suspect this is a fairly common mode of failure.Seeing this allowed me a temporary fix for several days until I received the replacement part. I simply tied the switch closed using a nylon zip tie to make the machine think the lid was closed. Using a second tie, I reattached the whole switch assembly to the metal top plate so it didn't drop anywhere it shouldn't go. How to do this will be pretty obvious if you look at where the lid pin goes through the top plate.
I unscrewed the 2 screws on the back of the console (part with the knobs), and then flipped the console back. Unplug the plug the connector that is coming out of the top of the washer. This connects the lid switch to the washer. Use a screw driver to pop off the brass S brackets that attach the washer housing to the washer back panel. Remove the washer housing by tilting it toward you when standing in front of the washer. When the housing is on the floor, you can see the lid switch inside the top of the washer housing. Remove the old lid switch and then replace it with the new one. Reassemble the washer in the opposite order. Replacing the housing was the hardest part of the whole process. Be sure to catch the lip of the FRONT of the washer housing UNDER the frame that the washer is sitting on. The sides of the housing should go on top of the frame. Patience is a virtue on this part.
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