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PartSelect Number PS11722098
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Unplug washer.2. Remove screws at control panel end caps.3. Flip control panel back to expose wiring.4. Detach lid switch wiring harness from control panel.5. Use screwdriver to pry the 2 brass clips holding the back panel of the washer to the front and sides piece.6. Tilt the front/sides piece over to expose lid switch.7. Use nutdriver to detach ground wire.8. Use screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding lid switch in place.9. Install new lid switch. Make sure wiring harness piece is facing the right direction.10. Put washer back together in same order it was disassembled. Make sure front/sides piece connects to the clips at the bottom.
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First I unplugged the washing machine. Then I removed the two screws that hold the top console in place; these are located in back of the main console (where the dials are). Once removed, the entire console swivels back, exposing the wires underneath. I unplugged the wiring harness that was connected to the washing machine top flat surface. I then removed the two s-shaped brackets with a screwdriver by prying underneath. This allowed me to remove the main sheet metal frame around the washing machine. The lid switch assembly is located under the top console. I simply removed it and replaced with the new assembly and put it back together. A snap!
After troubleshooting the timer, found that the drum would spin if I manually pressed the lid switch with a screwdriver, then it wouldn't work at all. Unfortunately, there was a load of laundry and no way to drain the drum. I bypassed the lid switch (snipped the plastic switch off and twisted the wires). Put a small wire nut over the wires and taped the wire to the top of the machine with plenty of electrical tape so not to cause a shock. Finished that load and ordered the part. Followed advice from former story tellers and removed the two long screws that run down into the cabinet on both sides of the machine, followed by two smaller screws on the top corners of the control panel. Slide the whole panel towards the front of the cabinet about 1/4" and rotate it back over the back panel. The wire assembly will hold it from falling to the floor (watch the tubing that runs on the top edge). Located the plug that leads to the lid switch and pull up on the tab and wiggle it out. Push the tabs on the side of the connector on the cabinet and push it through (watch the metal edges). You will see two metal clips on the left & right top of the cabinet. Put a screwdriver in the notch on the front side and pop them off. Take note on how they are set in the two sides Place hands on both sides of the cabinet and pull towards you, it will rotate over and you can access the lid switch. Remove the two screws from the inside of the lid. Slide the wires & plastic casing off the two small clips on the rim & replace with the new switch. Be careful not to tighten too much cause you'll split the plastic mounting. Reverse the process and your back in business. I believe my lid switch broke due to excessive slamming of the washer lid. Hope this helps
Removal Steps1.Unplug washer and pull away from wall 6 inches or so. (You will need space on either side to remove the cover.)2.Release control panel: Unfasten two screws at corners of panel. Tilt backwards. Unfasten old lid switch wire coupling and push it downward.3.Remove washer cover (top and sides): Remove clips at two corners under control panel. You should be able to gently lift and remove the cover.4.Remove lid switch assembly: Unfasten two screws holding switch to washer top. Unfasten ground wire (using 8mm wrench). Use screwdriver to lift up two clips holding switch assembly.Reassembly is reverse of removal. When replacing the cover, line it up so that the side edges of the cover sit on top of the rail and the front edge slides beneath the rail. I learned this the hard way, and, in fact, it is still not fastened securely.
I removed the screws & bolts to the control panel. Lifted the panel up & unhooked the wiring, then moved the control back & out of the way. Next I removed the clips that hold the back of the washing machine in place. I lifted up the top of the washing machine & was able to remove the damaged lid switch. Replaced the lid switch, which was relatively easy to do. Then I put the washing machine back together. The key is to remember what & where the parts go: for example the clips that hold the back of the machine in place. You know where they go but not exactly how they go in & how the rear of the machine connects to it. But otherwise not a hard repair.
Do not assume it is timer...my bad...had washer apart to begin with , looking for problem...(ALWAYS look at the lid switch,I did not)when i broke the timer,and realized that was NOT the problem,I ordered lid switch and timer , installed both in less than 20 minutes , putting entire washer back together about an hour.Hooked it up , and POW!!!! IT WORKED!! lol!!!
I read the repair suggestions from Paul and Karen. I was amazed at how easy it really was. I have never fixed something like that before and my husband was not home to do it so I just read the directions for repair on your partselect site. I printed off the directions that another person wrote and followed them as to how to take off the control panel. ONce that was off, the rest was easy. I numbered each screw and hole so it would be easy to put back together but really wasn't that necessary. It really took less than an hour, I am glad I didn't pay someone to do it! It's was extremely helpful to have the directions on your site that told how to take the control panel off.As for the O ring replacement..that was less than five minutes...just take the top part off and pull the other part out and replace the ring. Anyone can do that. No tools.
Real good your web site gave me good repair tips.
This is a machine I bought from Costco in 2001 - it has been very reliable and this was its first repair.Getting the top off this washer requires a lot of disassembly. However, if you push the drum down on the right hand side of the machine, you can easily reach under the lid and remove the old switch. Mine had broken loose from its plastic mounts, so the lid plunger no longer activated it. Save the two screws that go through the washer top to secure the new switch.I unplugged the electricity, reached under the top and pulled the old switch out. Its cables are enclosed in a stiff plastic hose with a slit down its length so you can pull the wires through the slit. You need to pull out around 6 inches of the wires. I then cut the wires to remove the old switch and next cut the wires on the new switch to the same length as the ones removed. Stagger the cuts about 1 inch so that the two joints will not be on top of each other. I stripped each end of the two wires, slipped shrink-wrap tubing (from radio shack) on to the new switch wires, then soldered the new switch wires to the existing wires back to the control center. I then slipped the shrink wrap over the soldered joints and shrank it with a match. Feed the joined wires back into the plastic tube and feed the switch under the washing machine rim. It takes a little maneuvering to get the switch aligned with the two screw holes in the top. Be sure the switch is pushed up into the lip opposite the screw holes - push the back end of the switch up into the lip before trying to align the front end of the switch with the screw holes. Align the screw holes with the switch holes, install the two screws and check that you hear the slight click of the microswitch if you push down a pencil into the interlock slot before you tighten everything up. Plug in the electricity and off you go!
First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it. On my machine there are two screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel. In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one. Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel. I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.
First I removed the two screws on the back side of the switch panel and tilted it back to expose the controls. I then pryed up the top of the washer to expose the lid switch. This was a mistake because I damaged the clips and bent the metal frame. Anyway after that I unlatched the lid switch on the top side, pulled it through the bottom, removed two screws holding the lid switch in place and replaced the switch and lid switch strike. Because I wrecked the machine top I had no alternative but to drill two holes from the top and put two screws in to hold the top down. It's ugly but it works.The best part of all this is I received the part so fast that I was able to keep up the pace of doing laundry with no interruption. Thanks for being so reliable and quick to deliver. I already told many people about your service!
First off it was much easier after watching the video that was on PartSelect website. It was a very good description of how to do the repair. The main thing is to have enough room to be able to move the washer around and be able to get around it.. Our washer and dryer are in our 1/2 bath so we had to completely unhook the dryer to move it out of the way to have room to work around the washer.. It was still a tight squeeze but it was pretty quick and easy once we got the area where the lid switch is attached. The only trouble we had was putting the front of the washer back on the tub correctly. That was mainly in part with not having enough room to move around. It was easy enough that is was worth saving the service call from the repairman. The most help was watching the video. Thanks PartSelect for your help.
remove 2 screws that hold timer sectionremove large clips that hold lid sectionrepace lid swich and put back togetherworks good
i knew the lid sw. must be bad and had a new one in hand, but when i remove the sw. ( near the lid ) i found the wires going back to where i could not reach. was not sure how to get at them so i repaired the sw. with tape untill i could find how to get at the wire end. after reading more in this repair area i know that i need to remove the control panel which is easy to do. next time i will read all i can on repairs in this section!!
Washing machine is in a closet - tight space - was able to disconnect switch panel following other instructions, 2 screws on back, vertical // 2 screws near top corner on back, horizontal.Pulled switch box off, could not get top sheet of washer off though, needed to detach side panel from back panel and lean the washing machine exterior panels fwd, and reach in from the back to disconnect the swicth ground, then pulled the lines, and disconnected the switch.Then while still leaning the unit fwd, reconnected the ground for the new switch assemply, got it in the small clips leading back to control panel, fed the switch back into the control panel and reconnected.Then, leaned unti back into place and got the panels lined up again, reset the control box, fiddles with the s clamps, and just tightened up the 4 screws.Done.
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