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PartSelect Number PS11722098
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Your website has by far the best step by step instructions and videos. I followed each step. Being able to watch someone else make the repair is invaluable. I have to say I was very sceptical of the list of most likely parts at issue, but it was dead on. I would recommend you to anyone.
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Replaced the lid assembly and it is working great.
I removed The two screws on the back of the timer control console and flipped backward. Then removed the two spring retainers. Then pulled sides front and top forward to get to the switch and wires. replaced the switch and reversed the procedure to complete the repair. All went well. Very easy. Thanks
I didn't do the repair a friend of mine did the repair and it was extremely quick and easy. I probably could have done it myself if I had had some tools. But what I really liked about PartSelect was their quick service. I ordered the part one day, and it told me online that it would be three to five days before it got there. I was fine with that, but when I got home the next evening, it was at my house. And also you had the lowest prices on the internet and my own city. By far the best service anyone can ask for! Thank you, my washer is like new again.
I removed the old switch by leaning the tub to one side in order to get my hands between the tub and the body of the washer. When I pulled the connection out where it connects to the control panel the control panel connecter was not attached and came loose. I had to remove the control panel enough to get my hand in far enough to grab the connector. Once I got them connected it was simply a matter of putting every thing back together. I did not have my manual that may have given me a better idea of what I was getting into. It was done mostly by feel as I was unable to see how things were assembled. The good news, it's done and it works.
UNPLG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICAL OUTLET:Open the top lid and remove the two screws that attaches the cut off switch to the top of the washing machine. Remove the screw on each end of the control panel, (they are angled down and are quite long). Now lift the control panel back over the top of itself. The plug for the cut off switch comes up from below in front of the control panel (very easy to see) and unplug it from the plug going to the control panel. I believe you have to squeeze the sides of one of the plugs to disconnect them. Once disconnected they pull apart. . Remove the two clamps (if you are like me and can’t remember how things come off take a digital picture before removing the clamps) that attach the washer top to the back panel of the washing machine. Use a screwdriver and insert in the end of the clamp facing you of the clamp and pry the clamp upward, repeat with the other clamp.The body of the washing machine will now easily tilt back, away from the control panel. I suggest you put something about a foot high down in the front to let the body rest on while performing the rest of the replacement. Helps keep it in place when you tilt it back up to reattach the clamps.Take a nut driver and remove the ground wire from the body of the washer panel. There are two clamps that secure the cut off switch wire and the plastic covering to the top of the body. These clamps can be pried open to remove the wiring. No need to remove the clamps. The new switch is now ready to be installed. In the reverse sequence of removalReplace the two screws to secure the switch to the top of the machine. Tighten them down until flush and tight. Tightly reattach the ground wire in the same hole you removed it from. Insert the wiring and plastic covering back into the clamps that you secured the old wiring and wiring cover.Now tilt the body of the machine upward and make sure it lines up so you can align the clamps properly to the rear panel of the machine. The body will be wobbly feeling until the clamps are reseated. Insert the clamp in the rear panel first and then pull them down and forcibly insert it in the proper holes in the washer body. Repeat for the second clamp. Check to make sure everything feels tight and no longer wobbly. Tilt the control panel back down and reattach the two original screws. Remember they angle down and are quite long. It may take a couple of times to make sure they are lined up with the holes thay came out of. Plug the machine back up. Turn the control knob to spin and close the lid. If the tub spins and then stops when the lid is raised everything is workingHope this helps, I went into quite a bit of detail because it can appear to require a lot of knowledge for someone without mechanical experience. If you follow the instructtions you will do fine. There are also other very good instruction on here. If some of my instructions seem confusing check another poster and see if maybe they were able to explain it with less confusing language. Bill P Louisiana
I was able to install only removing the 2 back screws off the control panel and by tilling that back. The control panel is on hinges so only 2 screws and pull forward and flip up. I didn’t removing anything else. I hardest part was removing and reinstalling the ground wires. I have long fingers and just tilted the washer drum to the one side to reach in with pliers to remove and reinstall the ground wire screw. If you don’t have long fingers this might be a bit harder to do.
Removed two screws at the rear of the control console. Tilted the console back,Unplug the lid switch cabe from the washer. Remove one screw on the rear of the panel near the left side. Raise lid, and raise the washer cabinet, and pull forward. Lay the cover on flat serface. Use a blanket or piece of carpet to protect the finish. This will give you access to the lid switch assembly. I went to a web site i found by Google, (how to replace whirlpool lid switch) which was very helpful.
Just like others described with this problem, I disconnected the electricity, removed the screws to the control panel from the back, pried up the S clamps with the screwdriver, unplugged the lid switch cable, then tilted the body panel forward away from the back and drum. I unscrewed the switch from under the lip, removed the old switch assembly, put in the new switch, and reversed the process.
Removed control panel tilted it back out of the way.Unplugged the lid switch, pushed in these side of the control switch to release it from the machine.Unfastened the lid switch control screws at the rim of the washers opening.Took socket wrench and removed the ground screw.Reached to back of machine and found the loosened wires and fed them up and slipped them from behind the secure clamp from behind the washer.Slide the plastic channel from the lid switch out of the side clamp of washer. Then slide the loose wires up over the side clamp, that released the lid switch.New lid switch, slide it through the under lid and washer tub, then slip the plug end of wires over the top of side clamp, slide thru the clamp to back of washer.Took the plugin wires and slide them down behind the clamp on the back of washer. Insert plug, thru the back of washer top until it slips into place.Green ground wire with ground wire screw and fasten it back into place with socket wrench.Screw the lid switch into place. Then plugged the lid switch at the control panel. Flip control panel back into place making sure it was screwed back into place.Plugged washer in and it worked like a charm.Biggest problem was the ground screw.
It was fairly easy. I noticed that the safety switch was not in place. The screw housings were broken so it was a matter of opening the top of the washer to replace the broken switch. Easy as pie and getting the part was even easy to locate and order.
Make sure the unit is unplugged. I removed the screws that hold the control panel in place. Unplugge the lid switch from the panel. Removed the two large brass clips with screwdriver. This allow me to remove the washer body by tilting it forward. I removed the hardness from the clips, disconnect the ground and remove the two screws that held the switch in place. Simply reverse the procedeures with the new switch and I was done.
first I shifted thebasket to the side and removed the two screws holding the lid switch on,then shifted the basket to the back and reached under top and unplugged the old switch, shifted the basket back to the side and then pulled the wires out of the plastic tubing holding them out of the way. pressed the new wires into the plastic tubing and then shifted the basket to the back to reach in to plug in the new switch. Then shifted the basket to the side to position the new switch and put the two screws into the new switch.Since the new switch has an extra wire (green ground wire with a ring terminal on it)i had to reach in and remove the screw for the ground wire and place the new wire on with the wire located there. Aground wire runs from the lower half of the washer to the cover and is held on with a screw. Both ground wires go on the same screw.Quick and easy
Unplugged the washer and removed the two screws at the bottom corners of the control panel and identified the source-plug of the lid switch assembly. I followed the switch and found two metal clips along the way that I pried off with my fingers. The grounding wire was screwed to the frame behind the switch and a little tricky to get to, but with a wrench and some flexibility it came out easily, but don't drop that screw! I removed the old part, and installed the new assembly by attaching the ground wire again and pressing the metal clips back onto the frame. After fastening the control panel again, the washer tested fine and works like new.
Diagnosed using a screw driver pushing down on the lid switch. The machine would start if the switch was pushed farther than depressed by lid. Once the part arrived, removed the two screws securing old switch with a phillips screw driver. Then slipping my hand between the basket and the lid using a pocket screw driver to depress one side of electrical plug and my thumb on the other, unplugged from socket and removed from machine. Install the new switch assembly, correctly routed the harness and plugged connector into socket. Repair complete.
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