Lid Switch

PartSelect Number PS11722098

The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not drain.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Will not fill with water.
  • Lid or door will not open.
  • Not draining.
  • Touchpad does not respond.
  • Lid or door won’t close.
  • Compare At

    $29.87
  • You Save

    $4.98
  • Your Price

    $24.89
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 160 reviews What's this?
 

44 of 49 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerTERRY from LAKELAND, FL

Would not rinse or spin

Do not assume it is timer...my bad...had washer apart to begin with , looking for problem...(ALWAYS look at the lid switch,I did not)when i broke the timer,and realized that was NOT the problem,I ordered lid switch and timer , installed both in less than 20 minutes , putting entire washer back together about an hour.Hooked it up , and POW!!!! IT WORKED!! lol!!!

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

39 of 46 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

Customermary from Wilmington, NC

Lid switch broke and washer would not drain or spin

I read the repair suggestions from Paul and Karen. I was amazed at how easy it really was. I have never fixed something like that before and my husband was not home to do it so I just read the directions for repair on your partselect site. I printed off the directions that another person wrote and followed them as to how to take off the control panel. ONce that was off, the rest was easy. I numbered each screw and hole so it would be easy to put back together but really wasn't that necessary. It really took less than an hour, I am glad I didn't pay someone to do it! It's was extremely helpful to have the directions on your site that told how to take the control panel off.

As for the O ring replacement..that was less than five minutes...just take the top part off and pull the other part out and replace the ring. Anyone can do that. No tools.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

Customerluz from New York, NY

Washer will not change to any cycle and lid switch will stay on position.

Real good your web site gave me good repair tips.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Lid Switch

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerAnthony from La Jolla, CA

Lid switch plastic screw holes fatigued and broke - switch then did not close

This is a machine I bought from Costco in 2001 - it has been very reliable and this was its first repair.
Getting the top off this washer requires a lot of disassembly. However, if you push the drum down on the right hand side of the machine, you can easily reach under the lid and remove the old switch. Mine had broken loose from its plastic mounts, so the lid plunger no longer activated it. Save the two screws that go through the washer top to secure the new switch.
I unplugged the electricity, reached under the top and pulled the old switch out. Its cables are enclosed in a stiff plastic hose with a slit down its length so you can pull the wires through the slit. You need to pull out around 6 inches of the wires. I then cut the wires to remove the old switch and next cut the wires on the new switch to the same length as the ones removed. Stagger the cuts about 1 inch so that the two joints will not be on top of each other. I stripped each end of the two wires, slipped shrink-wrap tubing (from radio shack) on to the new switch wires, then soldered the new switch wires to the existing wires back to the control center. I then slipped the shrink wrap over the soldered joints and shrank it with a match. Feed the joined wires back into the plastic tube and feed the switch under the washing machine rim. It takes a little maneuvering to get the switch aligned with the two screw holes in the top. Be sure the switch is pushed up into the lip opposite the screw holes - push the back end of the switch up into the lip before trying to align the front end of the switch with the screw holes. Align the screw holes with the switch holes, install the two screws and check that you hear the slight click of the microswitch if you push down a pencil into the interlock slot before you tighten everything up. Plug in the electricity and off you go!

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Lid Switch

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerBrooks from Plano, TX

Lid switch asembly broke

First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.

The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it.

On my machine there are two screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.

You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel.

In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.

Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one.

Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel.

I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?