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PartSelect Number PS11722098
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Followed some very handy instructions I found on the web.First unplug machine and next back off the screws in the back of the plastic end caps holding down the control panel.Then slip a putty knife under each of the front corners to release the panel so it can flip backexposing the lid switch wiring harness clip connector. Release the lid switch clip connector from the wiring harness.Next release the two brass colored clips that hold the top to the sides.Remove sides.Remove screws holding lid switch and unclip switch from back of top nd from under top .Remove switch and replace with new one.Reverse order reassembly making sure the four base tabs of the sides are in the four slots in the machine base frame.Reinstall brass clips. Make sure new switch is clipped to the control panel harness.Screw down corner screws in control panel end caps.Done. Thank you PartsSelect for your pormpt, courteous, and informative service.You also had the lowest price and fastest delivery.Well done!
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Removed back panel to remove tub from shell. Unscrewed the brackets holding the springs. Used screw driver to pop out pads with hammer onto screw driver. Cleaned out tub and put grease on springs where they attach to bracket. Replaced panel and ran machine to find a leak. Took machine apart again to find the knocking of the tub against the back panel caused a whole in the plastic tub. Silicon and mechanical tape. Washer works fine for now.
Unplugged the AC cord and turned off the two water lines. Removed the control panel on top of the machine by removing four screws. Removed two clips that fastened the top of the machine to the rear panel. Tilted the cabinet forward a little bit and unplugged the switch. Removed the switch with the two philips screws and installed the new switch and plugged in the plug on the end of the wiring harness. Then reassembled everything. Cleaned the mess and plugged in the AC cord. turned the water on and everything worked perfect.
unplugged washer. Remove 4 screws (Phillip's screwdriver) from back panel. Lift panel up. unplug switch remove ground wire (open end wrench) Remove ground screw. Removed switch wire from clips. Put in new switch & ground wire-less than 30 minutes.Your service was excellent! FastWorse was moving the washer
The machine was not designed for quick repairs. The top, front and sides of the machine are all one piece. I had to remove the screws on the lower back access panel. Then remove the water lines, ground screw and outlet hose. I then had to remove the two screws holding the control panel in place. I then bumped the control panel loose. I could then move the back access panel, which is the entire back of the machine, upward to remove it from the clips, located under the control panel. The back access panel will then move away from the machine about 3-4 inches. From the back of the machine, I then had my son tilt the top and sides of the machine forward, leaving enough space for me to reach through the gap and remove the ground screw from the switch. I could then remove the entire switch by pulling it loose from the clips under the top housing and unplugged it from the connection. I then could attach the new ground wire and holding the new switch in place, I had my son secure the switch to the washer. I then had to clip the new switch along the inside of the housing and plug it in to the connection. We then had to realign the sides of the washer with the base, as we lowered it back into place. Holding them in place, we could then reattach the back access panel, loosely, by replacing the two screws on the lower back panel.. Then, aligning the clips that are located under the control panel, we attached the top of the access panel and tightened the screws at the bottom to secure the entire access panel in place. At this point, we could reattach the control panel, water lines, ground wire and outlet hose. It would have saved about two hours of time if the top of the washer was hinged and could have been tilted back to expose the lid switch and tub. Removing the water lines and the outlet hose also allows water to spill, as the tub drains. PartSelect was extremely quick in getting the switch to me. I ordered it on Friday and it arrived on Saturday morning. With five people in our household, clothes washing is a daily chore. We didn't miss a beat. Now, if the engineers at KitchenAid could use a little common sense in designing their products it would make repairs quicker and with less cleanup.
This was the perfect replacement part for my lid switch that went bad. The replacement was a little difficult; only because you have to disassble the control panel to disconnect the lid switch pig tail connector. Also, the grounding screw is screwed in a position where you can not get to the screw, so the best method is to cut the wire and connect it to the new grounding wire on the replacement lid switch and use a lot of electrical tape and I even covered the electrical tape in silicone to water proof it just in case.I followed installation instructions given by other users on here and it went perfect. Saved myself the expense of buying a whole new washing machine just because of a stupid plastic cheaply made lid switch.As far as this website/company, however, I am very happy with the easy of finding the correct part, the availability of the part and the very fast shipping I received. And of course, the best benefit is the cost of part versus the cost of a whole new machine (which I am sure Whirlpool had in mind). So, congrats to PartSelect.com. Amazing customer service and that system they use to find the parts you need is very good indeed.Thanks PartsSelect.com and thanks to the user users who posted the instructions to replacing this part.
Sir, I have been repairing appliances for 45 years, for myself and friends. I repaired this washer while I talked on the phone with my sister, so with the help of your video I was able to turn a job I thought was going to be extensive to a one handed job, and I did it in 15 minutes.I am so looking forward to the next repair job, so I can use your web site once more. One word, fantastic.David Hatcher
Used screwdriver to open top of machine where controls are. disconnected the part, followed the wire along to broken part used screwdriver to remove that part replaced it with new part and fed wires though to where it connects - the whole process took less than 20 minutes
I watched the video, it went step by step, the screws were not the same as on the video but not hard to figure out how to take control top off. The rest was easy, the video was so easy to follow. The only problem I had was trying to put the cabinet back on the base, I had to have my husband help me, otherwise it was easy. This is the first time I have ever tried to fix a washing machine, I had been looking at new ones, but I decided to try my hand at fixing the problem and I am glad I did,my husband is so proud that I did it by myself that he is telling all our family and friends. I will shop this website again. Thank you
Un-screwed the control panel and lift it up. Release hinges holding the cabinet base of the washer. Un-plugged the wiring harness - unscrewed the old switch, put on the new, put the washer cabinet base back on and attached the control panel.
I didn't do it but a friend of mine did. He removed the screws in the back of the machine and lift that back panel up. and from their he was able to do what needed to be done.
Unscrewed two screws at rear of console/controls, flipped up the console on the hinges, unplugged the Molex connector to the console, released the locking clips, pulled the outer shell of the washer forward enough to expose the lid switch, unscrewed it and pulled it out of the retaining clips, then reversed to put everything back together.I'm in computers and IT, so washing machine repair is a bit out of my general area of expertise. That said, the lid switch is a pretty easy repair and for the cost of a $20 part and a half hour of my time I no longer need to buy a $500 washing machine.
I removed the two screws in the lower left and right corners of the control assembly. You then lift the assembly about an inch or two and then tilt it back. Then there are two clips shaped kind of like an S (mine were gold) connecting the back of the washer to the top of the washer. I removed these clips by prying them off with a screwdriver. Be careful, they can shoot out. Then I unhooked the electrical connector which dives into the top (its the only one). You just hold the two clips in and pull it out. Then the entire front panel and top can be pulled away. I pulled it away and then layed it flat on the ground so the front of the washer is laying on the ground and the back of the top is pointing towards the ceiling. Then I used a landry basket to prop the lit open while I went to work. First you remove two screws holding the old lid switch to the top. Then you remove the screw holding the ground wire. Then the whole lid switch assembly comes out and you pry it out from under some clips that wrap it around the bottom of the top. When you remove it, pay attention to which side of the electrical clip (the end of the assemply) faces towards you so you can put the new switch back in the correct position. Then I screwed the new assembly into the top with the two screws. Connected the green ground wire. Fenangled the tupes that protect the wire so that they could fit under the clips, and pushed the electrical connection end of the assembly through the top. Then you put the top and front back where it was, put the clips back (you clean some parts here that probably have not been cleaned in years) and fold the control assembly back down and put the two screws back in the corners. End of story and you just saved $150 bucks on some service technician who would have come see you (after telling you he or she would be there between 12 and 4) then would leave because he needs a part, then you wait two weeks, then he comes back (again between 12 and 4).
First ,no need to move washer.Remove 2 screws on bottom front of control panel.Lift panel up.Disconnect switch plug from top of cabinet.Remove 2 gold colored clips under panel byprying up with 2 screwdrivers.One flathead onfront of clip the other under the center of clip.Now you can tilt the whole cabinet forward.Place cabinet on floor.Remove plug connector,remove top screw to remove retaining clips X 2.Remove 3 screws holding lid switch and groundwire.I had to redrill groundwire hole because thehole stripped.(No biggie if you have a drill.)By this time you should know how to replace theswitch and cabinet.Make sure bottom lip of cabinet is under the frame when tilting back up.Give yourself a high-five.
Lifted the control panel bake and pulled the tub frame forward. I was then able to unattach the lid switch screws at the lid and unconect the plug from the control panel. The new one wnts inf perfectly and the machine is up and running. It takes alittle patience to look and understand how it comes apart but once you see that, the rest is easy. Thanks for the part, Isaved a lot of money!
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