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PartSelect Number PS1148434
This 87-3/4" long dryer drum belt goes around the dryer drum and the pulley to rotate the drum once motor is activated.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I watched the video on the web site after selecting the part and it was pretty simple. Everything worked just like the video showed. Probably could have been done faster but I took time to vacuum the inside of the dryer out. Really liked the video.
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I followed the directions from your video, which was a great help. The only difficulty I had was getting the belt in the tension pulley - you can not see what you are doing and the spring is strong - but I got it. Thanks
unplugged the dryer and "popped" the top with a screwdriver. Removed two phillips head screws located towards the top of the drum that hold the front panel in place.Unplug the two wires that attach to the front door switch. Removed the panel. In the center of the drum are three screws that mount it to the rear bearing assy. Thats the part that led to the breakdown of the front seal and guide blocks witch allowed lint to escape into the cabinet. Removed the screws then in the back of the dryer there is a small grill that allows air flow. If you take that off, there is the motor and belt tensioner.. My belt had been ruined so I just slid the drum out the front. Normally you would have to release the belt from the tension pulley and motor first. After sliding the drum out, you see the rear bearing assembly. Behind the flange, there are two screws that have to be removed to get the bearing assy out. Here is the tricky part. The two screws mount into a small plate that is on the back of the dryer. There is a tang in the center of that plate that holds a little steel ball that applies some tension to the bearing to help hold it in the correct position without making it to rigid to move around naturally. when you go to install the new bearing, tape that plate to the back of the dryer to hold it in place while you set the new bearing in place. unless you have someone to hold it, you will drop the ball and you will have to start over again. Using the grease provided grease the socket of the bearing and istall the ball of the flange into it. then take the little ball I described and apply grease to it and stick it to the backside of the bearing socket where you will see a hole drilled out. that ball sits in that hole and rests against the tang of the plate that I spoke of. after that the rest is easy. Remove the top felt piece with the teflon (white ) platwes from the top of the door assy. where the drum rides on. I used a wire brush to clean off the residue of dried glue. use some small pinch clamps or clothes pins to hold the new felt in place. Spread the glue provided onto the now clean surface and wait till it gets tacky ( afew minutes) then lay felt onto it evenly. then use the clamps to hold the felt while it dries. While thats drying, place the new belt over the ring at the back of the dryer. slide the drum in and as you do, pull the belt over the drum and just let it hang there. line up and istall the three screws to hold the drum to the rear bearing flange. then go to the back of the dryer and loop the belt around the motor shaft you will notice that the idler pulley on the tensioner slids right off towards you. Thats so you can get the belt on easier. Slide the pulley off and plce it agaist the belt, pull the tensioner to the right and when you have enough slack, push the idler onto the tensioner shaft. It sounds harder than it is it's really a lot easier when you see it. once the belt is installed remove the clamps from the new felt and install the front panel . place it in at the bottom first taking care to line it up in the grooves then push it into place. there are a couple of alignment clips that will help. Put the two screws in place, plug the switch wires back in, and lower the top. you are done. the only part i left out was to make sure you vacuum the whole thing out while you have it apart. especially where the lint trap is. there is usually a large buildup in there. plug it in and give it a test run.
I replaced this belt once before but it squeaked for over a year. This belt from Part Select was much better quality and now the dryer works perfectly, no squealing!
Removed access plate in rear, raised top panel, removed two screws holding front panel (with door) put new belt over drum. Threaded belt through path between motor drive and idler wheel. Put everything back together.My order was shipped very promptly, and was received very quickly. It is wonderful to have this service available on the internet. I can remember how difficult it used to be chasing down parts before. This was impossible in smaller cities.
Removed top and front of dryer and rear panel. Installed belt and new idler pulley. Reinstalled top and front panel and rear panel. Dryer worked great.
The upper glides were worn off and the felt had worn down causing the drum to have a gap at the bottom between the drum and the front panel. Clothes would get caught in this gap.Removed the top cover and front cover. You do not have to remove the drum to install these parts.I pulled off the old seals and guides. I used a Dremmel and wire brushed off the old glue. Applied the new glue [supplied with parts] and attached the new seal and guides. While the glue was drying I installed the new belt.Reinstalled the front panel and the top panel.Works like new.
Okay, so when we put clothes in the dryer, depending on how big of a load, it would make this unbelievable racket! Sometimes, clothes would get caught at the top of the drum and looked like it was burnt. So, after seeing some videos from this site on Youtube, I decided to try to fix it myself. I HATE fixing things and am usually awful at it. However, according to the video, it looked like something I could handle. So, first things first. I took the dryer apart. Starting with popping open the top and then unscrewing the door. There are tons of websites with people telling you how to do it. It's realy simple once you know how to do it. When you do this, you need to make sure you remember what goes where. Write it down if you have to...especially the wire set up. Try not to lose any parts and take your time. You'll notice on the top of the door that there is some felt with some plastic pieces. Those pieces should ALL be intact and not broken. I used the drum glide kit and replaced the felt and plastic pieces. It even comes with adhesive. Do this part first so the glue can dry while you do other stuff. Use clamps or clothes pins to help it stick properly. Okay, so while that was going on, time to pull out the drum. You'll need to disconnect the belt first. On this model, it's a snap. You can access the pulley thingy from the BACK corner of the unit. Just unscrew the little cover and look inside...the belt pulley stuff is right there. Belt is really easy to loosen just by pressing down on the thing that has the spring attached to it. Once it's disconnected, then you can lift the drum UP and slide it out the front. Rememember, UP and out. The first time I tried it, it wouldnt come out...thought something was wrong but nothing was wrong at all. Just need to lift it up high...you'll see. While I had it apart, and I still wasnt sure what broke first, the bearing or the glides, I decided to just replace three things at once and be done with it for a few years. First, the rear drum assembly. You just take out the old and replace with the new. The bearing kit comes with everything you need. There is a little teeny ball that goes with this too...you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. Best way to get that to stay in place is too grease it up with the stuff that comes in the kit. You'll need another set of hands to mount the bracket to the back of unit only because you can't reach around the whole machine. Okay, so that's done. Next,the belt! Put the belt around the drum just like the old one was...make sure the little notches are touching the drum..not the smooth side of the belt. Once you get it around the drum, push it back in the front and set the bearing on it's "seat." Go back to the back of the unit and attach the belt to the pulley. Again, really easy to get to. At this point the drum will still be lop-sided and you'll think something isn't right. It's fine. It will be lop-sided until you put the door back on that has the new glides. Give it a spin with your hand to make sure all is good.In the end, I'd say this was pretty easy. Hardest part was really the time it took to learn how to do it. Don't be afraid! Get a helper just to hold up the lid and stuff like that. Makes it way better. Oh, and while you have it ALL apart, CLEAN everything! Especially inside the door where the lint trap (that doesn't trap much) is. Runs great now and I can't believe I did it! Spent about 65.00..saved probably $150.00. Good luck. Parts Select had great prices compared to my local stores and it all got here fast. Good luck!!
First, I watched the how-to video and it gave very good instructions and a couple very good tips. I disassembled the dryer and took a little extra time cleaning all the dust that had accumulated. I then replaced the bearing and belt with no problems. This site and the video made it very easy to do and I will defenantly use it again.
To tell the truth I got involved with other business and my wife did the repair. The tub did not come forward as described in the video. She had to use some force as the tub support ball had worn into the bearing. All said the job was simple and much thanks to the Tech video. Thanks.
I followed the on line video which was a help. I already had the dryer apart before looking for the parts, since I did not know the problem before disassemby. The replacement bearing kit has one fault. The new screws are only Phillips head, the original ones were a combo Square Drive/Phillips. Fortunately I had saved the original hardware. The replacement Phillips head screws are IMPOSSIBLE to use to cut the threads in the new bearing plate. I had to use the old ones with a square drive bit and it was still difficult. Perhaps the holes in the plate need to be a few thousandths larger in diameter to make this easier. After cutting the threads the new screws worked OK, but still difficult to install them while reaching in the drum. Square drive or even hex head would definitely be better.
Took off front of dryer lifted up top removed drum. Replaced bearing and added grease. Slid new belt over drum lifted back of drum slipped into bearing housing.took little cover off back right corner put belt around pulleys. Reinslalled front panel. Tested machine working fine.
Go with the usual disassembly process (front clips, two Phillips screws, wiring, etc.) The only thing I would add to the process is that when you replace the bearing on the back of the drum, start the three screws into the holes on the disc BEFORE you try to install it throught the back of the drum. You are making your own threads, so run the screws in and out a few times, then place it on the back of the drum and insert the screws. Hope this helps...
Dismantled the dryer to determine that the belt was broken. Called a local supply outlet to request a belt. They said they couldn't find one. Did an online search and found Part Select. Called with the model number and within three days the part was delivered. Replaced the belt and the dryer was working within an hour. Hardest part was getting the dryer out of the laundry room. I would certainly call PartSelect again if I needed a part.
Unplugged dryer, pulled up on top panel to remove it. Removed a couple screws holding front panel to sides, and unplugged wiring harness. Removed front panel. Removed yellow plastic stop with one screw on top cross brace to allow removal of drum. Disengaged belt by cutting it since I was replacing it anyway. Lifted up on drum to disengage from rear bearing and carefully removed it. Removed old Drum Glide, cleaned surface and used included glue to attach new Glide. While glue was setting, vacuumed everything thouroghly and collected loose change. Replaced the two ignition coils by removing two screws and the retaining plate. Re-greased the rear bearing with high temp grease, and placed the new belt around drum. Make sure belt tensioning arm and spring are in place before replacing drum. Carefully insert the drum into rear bearing so as not to disturb the tensioning arm and spring. Lay on the floor and reach around each side of the motor to place the belt on the drive motor pulley and then carefully pull back tensioning arm to get the belt on that pulley. (This is the hardest part of the job.) Replaced the front and top covers in reverse order of above, plugged it in and it workes like new!
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