Drum Belt

First, I liked for a reset switch, because I guess some dryers have one. It seems mine doesn't. So that didn't work.

Next I cleaned out the lent build up everywhere. I would suggest doing this if you have a problem or not. It ended up being very little work for great return.

Heating Element had actually broke in half, so I ended up needing to replace it. Really unhooking the little electric prongs was the worst part. The have little tabs that bend down to hold them in place, and they don't really bend back up. So you have to break them out. The only thing with the coil is to make sure it doesn't touch the pan.

I put a new built on only because I had everything open, and had know idea how old it was. It was not hard really. You just need to pay attention to how the old one wraps through everything before taking it off. If it was shredded, and you didn't get to see it first, well then good luck.

First, I shut off the gas & unplugged the dryer. Then I disconnected the vent pipe so I could pull it away from the wall to access the back. Disassembling the dryer was simple.
there are 8 screws: 2 for rear access panel, 2 for top, & 4 for front panel! Once front panel is off, lift back of drum up 2 inches, then forward to get rear bearing out of it's bracket. My rear bearing had worn down so much it was 1/2 the size of the new one! It wore through the bracket down to the metal! I replaced the rear bearing & bracket assembly, as well as the belt & the spring for the belt tensioner! make sure you generously lubricate the new bearing as well as the tensioner pulley! The most time consuming part of this job was cleaning all the lint out the dryer cabinet& cleaning the drum. It works great now! I hope to get a few more years out of it!

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

My wife was able to easily do the repair before I could get home from work to do it. She watched the PartSelect video on her iPad as she did the necessary steps to get the belt replaced. We only needed one glide replacement, as one was still attached and intact. We should have purchased both sets of felt seal replacements, though that wasn't as urgent.
My wife thought the repair was quite easy overall.

Follwed all the other comments real easy

Very simple to take dryer apart ,1st top snaps off and 2 screws and front comes off,Dryer needed new front guide but I replaced rear support and belt also as recommended, good time to clean it out too.Hardest part was getting old guide and lower seal off, don't know if it's right but I used a small die grinder with a wire brush attached and it went real quick to clean old felt and glue off. $85 and dryer runs like it is brand new. easy for anyone with some mechanical ability. PartsSelect webpage made getting the right parts fast and easy

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

I followed the recommendation from William, from Ardmore, OK and Elvis, from Miami, FL for the repairs. Elvis had detailed instructions as well as William, so I just combined the two and I was able to repair my dryer in three hours time. My sincere thanks to partselect web site in posting the repairs on line and for everyones input. I will be back to use the web site again to troubleshoot my other appliances and order parts (great price, fast service for parts) and I will highly recommend this site to my friends.

This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.

I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.

Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.

Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.

Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.

If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.

removing was easy just open lower rear LH panel . Ordering was easy ,shipping seemed like alot? to install the new belt pop top of dryer I used a screw driver to help. remove front panel 2 screws then it also has about six clips may have to have gloves on so you do not skin your hands like I did.... lots of sharp edges. pay attention to the clips, so if they come off they will not be lost. panel will tilt slightly fwd then raise up and set aside. now you can slip the belt over the drum. I kept all the slack at the top till it was in position. the groved rubber side goes against the drum and the motor pully. then extend the spring tensioner into position . I rotated the drum a few times by hand to make sure everything was in position. replace front. check it is lined up well before forceing clips in. check felt material is properly in place, as you rotate it into position. push down top . good to go. I ran it for awhile watching everything work before placing it back in service. you may want to clean it out some while it is apart I used an air compressor and shop vac simultaniously as that seemed to work best. Wanted my son to do it as I think he had it over loaded as to why it broke? It maybe the bearings are going but it felt solid ?? I should find out in a month or so shich was which! I did not see any easy way to get to grease it. The belt was easy though pretty sure my son could have handled it!

1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.

I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.

First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.

First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...

This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..

Now, for a couple useful tips:

If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..

Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides..

Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!

i first looked up the diagram for this model and checked for the best way to take the front cover off the dryer. after removing the front cover i start looking for the wires that connect the door switch and remove the wires. the front cover also supports the weight of the drum, so carefully pull the cover until the drum comes loose. at this point you can visually see the parts of the parts that make up the workings of the dryer. i first noticed the drum was coming out with the front cover at this time i knew the rear drum assembly was broke. i then took the belt loose from tension pulley and slid it off the drum and removed both from the cabinet. after the drum was removed i also noticed the heating was broken in several places. i removed four screws from the heating element assembly and also removed two wire that were connected to the element. with all pieces removed i checked the thermal switches, there are three switches, one on the heating element, one on the vent side and one on the back panel of the cabinet. i then installed the rear drum assembly and the heating element assembly and connected the wires. i then slid the drum almost all the in place and put the new belt around the drum and dropped the rear drum into the bracket that supports the rear drum then run the belt around the tension pulley and around the motor pulley. i then placed the front panel back in place and connected the wires for the door switch and lifted the drum assembly up just enough to insert the front panel door support into the drum and placed the clips in place, checked all connections twice and connected power back to the unit and turned on and run it through all its settings.