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PartSelect Number PS1145040
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range. I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot. So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correct part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.
Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.
Removed control panel cover. Verified switch was bad with ohmmeter. Removed and replaced infinite switch. Removed and replaced board (simmer control) from back side of range. Need to reuse standoffs when replacing board. Used wiring diagram to verify correct installation of board and switch. Replaced cover. Everything is working fine since.
Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.
TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!
This caused the burner switch cotacts to arc burning out the switches. It took 30 or 43 minutes to replace the switches and put the range back together. The bake element took 10 min. ti replace. Grandma has her range back and I am a happy grandpa!! Thanks for the help and we saved over $170.00 for the repairs. Jim Johnson
was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram
I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.
I had open back cover and remove the switch than replace new switch. Makesure cable conection.
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