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PartSelect Number PS1017716
This part acts as a safety device against over heating in case of mechanical failure.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Thanks to the very fine posts on this site, and availablity of parts, I didn't have to call in a repair man. Due to the near-10 year age of unit, I first ordered a new fridge for the kitchen and moved the GE to the garage. Let it manually defrost. Figured based upon comments posted here I was dealing with the defrost system problem so ordered the temperature sensors for top and botton, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater. As a wise poster said, if I am going to pull the damn thing apart, I'm going to make sure I have all three parts in case I need a particular one. Do not have the skill or gauges to troubleshoot electrical components. Parts arrived from Parts Select in great time, and excellent packaging protection. Parts Select also has great diagrams of the unit, although I could not find written repair instructions anywhere. At first I was going to wait for the parts to arrive and replace everything, but since there was a dely in getting the new fridge in, and the freezer section of the old fridge worked fine, once I had defrosted the old fridge, and cleaned up a few of the rusted over connections, I put everything back together, to await new fridge and receipt of parts for old fridge. Well, as is the story of my Karmic life, once fridge defrosted, and I put everything back together, plugged old unit in inside garage, everything came back up working perfectly on the recommended settings for both freezer and fridge sections. Has continued to maintain correct temps for over a week now. Also have new fridge. Don't recommend the top freezer Maytag one for about $700, as construction is cheap, and temps fluctuate all over the place. Had Home Depot exchange out for the LG $740 top freezer model, and am really impressed with its construction and performance so far. (Both units are recommended buys by ConsumerRepots.Org) Not sure how long old unit will keep running correctly, nor what caused it to come back to life after the defrost. Perhaps a simple clogged drain tube, or shorted out rusted electrical connections that I cleaned. Anyway, am keeping Part Select parts on hand for possible future breakdown, and enjoying having both fridges running. We needed additional freezer space, and got the peace of mind of a new unit for the kitchen.
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took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix
I viewed the online video, which really is helpful.Most of my "repair" time was defrosting the freezer coils (about 1 hour). After removing the freezer shelves and access cover the thermostate and heater were in plain sight. The heater is held in place with two phillips head screws and two wires that unplug (one on either side of heater).The other tools came into play when removing and replacing the thermostate. Cut the two wires and strip for wire nuts, same with new thermostate. Wires color coded. I use electrical tape after appling wire nuts to seal the nuts.I ordered a timer but found out, after research, that my model has the timer interagrated on the motherboard (main electrical board) (like in a home computer). So I returned the time for refund.Super fast delivery of ordered parts. I ordered one evening, they arrived the next day.
After diagnosing the problem with the aid of PartSelect.com, I was able to identify the parts that I needed to replace. Repeating the same procedure for the repair, I unplugged the refrigerator.I transferred all the frozen food items to a cooler.I removed the shelves from the freezer.I removed the back panel from the freezer and located the thermostat with the aid of PartSelect.com and the exploded view of the freezer. I defrosted the freezer with a hair dryer and sucked up water using a wet-dry vacuum. I located the thermostat and removed the entire assembly to simplify the repair outside of the freezer enclosure. I removed the thermostat by cutting the two wires that hold it to the wiring harness. I then soldered the wires back in place and covered my work in heat shrink tubing.
I first bypassed the thermostat by cutting wires and splicing them together. This made no difference. I then saw that the defrost heater glass looked dark and may be burnt out. I replaced thermostat and defrost heater in 15 minutes with the parts from part select that arrived in less than three days. I believe the thermostat was the problem and now freezer works great.
Replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and Defrost Heating Element. The You Tube repair video clips were extremely helpful for both operations. My difficulty was getting access to the parts that needed to be replaced in a very tight side by side freezer space. Otherwise, the repair went smoothly and the refrigerator is back in normal operation in time to save the perishable food inside.
1: unplugged the power to the fridge to allow it to defrost the back wall of the freezer2: cleaned all the water from the thaw job3: removed the shelves in the freezer4: removed freezer light bulb cover, and all screws on the back wall that hold the panel cover over the coils (this is on the inside of the freezer compartment)5: removed heater element that was obviously burned out -- looked like a burned out light bulb -- the rubber insulator ends were dry cracked6: replaced with new heater element7: cut wires to thermostat -- removed old thermostat8: used wire nuts to connect the new thermostat (used water proof silicone on wire nut connections)9: reinstalled thermostat to coil, installed back wall panel with screws, and then put the shelves back in10: set the fridge and freezer to 5 simple as pie -- good luck!
take the metal cover off the defrost thermostat is on top of the coil take the thermostat off from the coil cut the two wires take the wire and strip the ends off take the new thermostat the wires are color coded wire them together put the thermostat back on coil your done real easy
Disconnected the refrigerator for a few hours. On back of frezer compartment unscrew 4 screw to get access to Old defrost thermostat (D. T.). I cut the two wires with pliyers atached to D. T. Peel them about one inch both the old and new D. T. With plyier. Color coded put them together. I used those electrical cap wires to attach them toguether an electrical tape around it to prevent any moisture. Now working like new. Expend approximately $25. And 20 minutes of my time. (I was being charged for the repair. $250.) Now is working like new. Thanks
This was generally an easy fix. The work was in such a confined area of our side by side and my husbands shoulders are broad so that was a little more challenging but overall a quick, easy and cheap repair doing it ourselves without having to call a appliance repairman.
You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.
Must have spent 10+ hours solid looking up info on the internet. Our ice maker had broken years ago, the door flap had broken years ago and I thought this was the end of a fridge after just 6 years 8 months. GE offered a "broken appliance" warranty for $379 for one year, with no guarantee that when a technician came to look at it, the repairs would be covered by the warranty!!! No thank you, you just want me to buy a new fridge. Okay, challenge on, I'll fix it myself.I took everything from the back of the freezer out. Spent an hour defrosting (note: use hair dryer next time). Ruled out a motherboard problem (even though it appears I have the old style motherboard), removed dust build up from fan intake. I could not get the heater to come on, so I cut off the thermostat defroster and connected the wires together. The only way to get the heater on was to set the freezer control to 0 / zero. So, ordered part from partselect.com and it arrived the next day!!!. Installed and unit appears to be defrosting okay after a week.So now I'm back to order the ice maker part. The door flap will wait for another time.Note: I've put in the time for novices and recognizing how the freezer is constructed.Time includes taking everything out of the freezer section, unscrewing everything, diagnosing problem, fixing the problem, putting everything back. I would say allow 3-4 hours and pat yourself on the back if you do it quicker.Note#2, if you have a large build up there is a hole in the floor of the freezer section. If the water does not evaporate it will run out of the hole and into your wooden floors! Place towels both inside and outside the unit just in case!
The instructions were good but the installation video really helped. The refrigerator is working fine now. Thanks.
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