ZGU385LSM1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

A rubber grate foot on my range top had worn out. I pulled the worn foot out and installed the new grate foot with no tools or accessories. Good as new! Now I don't have to worry about the grate scraping my range top and scratching the paint. I also ordered extras so I won't have to wait if another wears out.

Fairly easy repair. Remove the grate, then remove the loose fitting burner assemblies. Unscrew 5 screws using Torx (star) screwdrivers - 3 along the ring top and 2 on the inside flat portion of the ring. You'll need 2 different size Torx screwdrivers. Once the screws are removed, lift that piece. It may be stuck from years of baked-on spills, but there's nothing else mechanically holding it. pull off the electrical lead, which is just held with a compression fitting. Use needle-nose pliers to pull off the C-clip holding the igniter in place. Careful not to lose the little spring that the C-clip holds in place, though it's not really under a lot of tension. Change out the igniter and reassemble everything. I used the pliers to push the clip back in place. All set - works like new.

I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!

Unplugged electrical power to the cooktop unit.

Removed grills, removed burners (removed screws and electrical connectors to sparkers), removed knobs from gas burner controls, removed spill plate, removed insulation layer to expose/access existing wiring harness, transformer, and sparker control. Disconnected wiring harness from other connectors, grounding nuts, and sparker control box; removed light bar near five gas valves.

Snapped the five “valve positioners” off the valves individually in sequence using my hands and then started to snap on the new “valve positioners” in the same sequence as the ones that were removed. Note that the new “valve positioners” were black and the original ones were white. The bodies were at a slightly different angle but the guides to snap the new ones on worked well. Reconnected the new wiring harness connectors, grounding nuts, wires, etc.

Replaced the parts in reverse order to access the unit. Made sure surfaces, burners, and parts were cleaned and wiped down before putting it back together. Plugged the unit into power and it worked.

I determined what caused the wiring harness to originally fail was juices from food spilled on the area around the gas control knobs and ran down inside and got into the valve positioners that were on the gas control knobs. This lead to continually sparking.

Total time took around an hour but I had to do it twice because I needed to determine the model number of the cooktop to order the correct parts (manufacturer paperwork was folded up in the cooktop under the spill plate) and several weeks after getting the part, I had to access the unit to replace the part. My wife is happy.

Inserted the grate foot into the spot provided; after consulting the parts manuel to insure I was using the proper procedure.

I do use silicone to help hold the foot but it still won't hold

Replaced worn or missing Grate Foot with new ones. Took less than 5 minutes.

Cut off approx. 1/8" in length for correct fit.

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

Nothing technical.

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.