ZET3058WH3WW General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

Wait until oven is cold. Turn off power to the oven at the breaker panel (confirm: clock will be off). Open oven door. Remove upper rack. Unscrew glass cover over lamp and socket (it only turns one direction and may be tight). Slide cover off lamp socket. Remove old lamp - pull straight down. Install replacement lamp. Lamp pins line up front to back. Do not touch the lamp - use latex gloves. Make sure the lamp is fully pushed into its socket. Replace the glass cover by centering it on the socket with glass retaining tabs close to the matching areas on the metal socket. Take care not to damage the lamp. Turn the cover to lock in place. Make sure it is locked. Replace oven rack. Turn the power back on.

It wasn’t the magnetron.
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

must of had loose connection from wire terminal
to thermostat from factory. thermostat and wires
were melted. removed thermostat. and cut burnt
wires back. replaced thermostat and terminals.
used better quality terminals than factory.
also checked and tightened other loose connections. there was enough wire left after cut back to just put on new terminals.

Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

turned off power to oven; pulled out old bulb (unscrewed glass cover to access). Noted the direction of the electrical prongs when pulled bulb out... and inserted new bulb. Turned back on power to oven - bulb worked

Per instructions on part select.com website. But needs further repair because still doesn't heat food and pad is partially disabled.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Removed outer case, checked fuse first, it was good so went to thermostat. No continuity reading. Unhooked thermostat, used jumper wires to by-pass break—briefly plugged the unit in. It came on so I knew the issue was definitely the thermostat.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.