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ZEK737BA1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for ZEK737BA1BB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the ZEK737BA1BB
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low

  • Customer: James from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 152 of 176 people found this instruction helpful
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

The broiler element caught fire and burned out while I was broiling a steak.

  • Customer: Dianne from Rockville MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 31 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!

Oven would not heat to the correct temperature

  • Customer: Michael from Lawrenceville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

Top broiler element went out

  • Customer: Kim from Garland TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST MAKE SURE THE OVEN IS OFF!!!! I chose to shut it off at the breaker panel. Remove the two screws that attaches the broiler element to the oven. Gently pull it out. Unplug the two cable wires that are attached. Replace it and install the same way.

oven shut down code F3

  • Customer: Richard from Jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor

  • Customer: Joseph from Brick NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

Oven stops heating and states F3 error code.

  • Customer: Arno from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The most obbious suspect is the upper oven fan. Turned off power circuit breaker. Removed two philip screws at top of control panel and lowered the panel. Using the 3D view of the oven on this web site I located the fan limit switch. Jumpered the limit switch. Turned power on and the fan ran. That proved the switch was defective and not the fan. Replaced the limit I purchased from Partselect.com.

Please note* My life career was electrical. I used the schematic that came with the oven to determine that the limit was the only control between one of the 240 volt lines and the fan. Thus I knew it was safe to jump the limit.

If you are in doubt, seek some advice.
Good Luck, Arno

Convection oven fan and door light not working

  • Customer: Michael from Albuquerque NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

Replacement of heating element

  • Customer: Kimberly from El Cerrito CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

Oven not heating

  • Customer: Joseph from Stuart FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Oven would not maintain set temperature

  • Customer: Leonel from Biddeford ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.

  • Customer: phil from forney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

unit burnt out no broiler

  • Customer: Becky from Piedmont MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping

Burnt Smell

  • Customer: Eugene from Hilton Head SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Broiler element would not heat; bake element did heat

  • Customer: Brad from San Carlos CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven racks, removed screws holding element hanging support from roof of oven, removed screws holding plate of element to rear of oven. CAREFULLY worked element loose from back of oven and gently alternated pulling each side of element (near the base) until connecting wires came free of insulating batting. Pull too hard and the connecting wires can break loose and disappear behind the batting. Once freed, disconnected both wires with socket (use pliers for extra grip on flat part of connectors, if necessary), removed element, braced new element on bottom of oven, aligning connectors to now-free wires. Re-attached with the new screws that came with the element (attachment points on element are threaded; do not reuse old screws as the threads may not match), gently re-inserted element into insulating batting at rear of oven, reattached hanging support, then replaced element plate screws.

Can be difficult to work in small, deep ovens....many oven doors can be removed. If so, remove oven door and use a chair as a support...lie on your back on the chair and hang your head and arms in the oven.
All Instructions for the ZEK737BA1BB
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