ZBD4200D01WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the
guides.

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Used the pliers to remove the broken roller. It came off in pieces. Slid new one on.

Cap on end of roller track was a bit of a challenge. It sort of twists & pulls off.

First removed four old wheels. then attached four new wheels to lower rack by pressing into slots.

Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.

1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides.
2. Removed the upper rack.
3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack.
4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack.
5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear.
6. Walked away

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

Pulled the end cap off and replaced the wheel.
most of the parts were for future repairs

popped old wheel off popped new one on
for the rack roller i took the ends off and slid old rollers off then slid new ones on.

Found a forum on the internet that said the Air Check Valve located under the screen on the bottom of the back wall inside the wash compartment may be the culprit. Took it out by using nut driver to remove screen, and twisting the part out. The seal was deteriorated. Repleacing the part was simply the opposite, and very easy.

I also replaced the screen on the floor of the wash compartment because the rubber was deteriorating there too. Here I had to remove the spray arm by carefully prying the locking tabs outwards and lifting the entire spray assembly upwards. Then, then plastic covers need to be unscrewed and removed. The new part had the plastic cage molded into it. So I discarded the old plastic cage. There are a couple of retaining clips that are a little tricky to get off the plastic posts. But, they can be removed by prying a standard screw driver underneath and working them off the post. Do not break the plastic post, and save the retaining rings. The new part does not come with any screws or retainers, so you will need to re-use them. Simply, place the new screen in position, slide on the retaining clips, and screw down the cage. The spray assembly is just slid back onto the shaft and snaps into place. A lot of writing, but was rather simple to do. 15-20 minutes.

It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.

After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.

I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.

PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.

I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!