YWGD5300VW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

Had to buy the entire new unit, but followed the video, took notes and it was a piece of cake!

Exactly as video describe

Using a digital multi-meter determined thermal fuse was blown. Replaced thermal fuse and cycling thermost. Powered on the dryer and dryer started spinning.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

Removed rear panel screws carefully removed panel with out disconnecting wire harness located thermal fuse removed 2 screws removed the 2 wires with needle nose pliers put new thermal fuse in connected the 2 wires carefully put panel back on and tightened screws turned on power and start got heat problem fixed

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

Watched the videos for unusual noise... they are great and saved me time with advice how to open the machine from top and front and install belt on tension wheel. Lower roller bad, replaced both. Opted to also order and replace the belt and rear seal upon inspection. Time spent would have been 30 minutes or less but rear seal replacement requires time to clean off old seal adhesive and glue on new one. Take your time with rear seal replacement it takes longer than I thought but worth it. The labor involved to replace the seal alone would have been more than the dryer cost new. Also- I ordered parts at 2pm std shipping option and got them THE NEXT DAY less than 24 hrs later. May not be typical depending on your location but I was amazed. I have been fixing all my own appliances for years first time customer with Parts Select. Oh and EACH of the 3 parts ordered were 10$ less EACH than my local parts guys. WOW

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Unplug dryer, remove hex screws securing back panel, disconnect plug and conncector from switch, twist and pull out switch; install new switch by reversing the process.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

I followed the repair instruction video from the web site and the repair went just like the video. Before I viewed the video, I didn't even imagine I could make this repair myself. The replacement switch was exactly the same as the original from the factory. Everything went well and it was a pleasant experience. Our dryer is working just fine now.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the gas valve coils, although I'm sure the problem was the coils.