YRT14ZKXGW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

repair went well. Ice maker still not making ice. UGH

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I followed vidio instructions, took about 15 minutes. Fridge making great ice cubes again. Felt prouud of the repair I did being 70 years old and a female. Thank you

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

You gotta disconnect the power and turn off water remove the shelf the ice maker and everything in freezer take evaporator fan cover off then loosen the 2 upper ice maker bolts and remove the lower icemaker bolt push up on ice maker to remove disconnect plug and remove plate unhook ground then remove the evaporator fan cover then remove the 2 screws holding the back panel in and the trim on the ducting on the bottom of freezer also 2 screws. Then r/r fan and foll this in reverse to re assemble

Water was already off. All I had to do was pull the fridge away from the wall, remove two screws that hold the fill tube onto the back of the frige, then remove the fill tube. Install the new fill tube, reinstall the two screws. Had to cut the water line straight and clean, slip on the new Compression nut and farrell and insert into the new fill tube, tighten-up, good-to-go.

Moved the refrigerator out, unscrewed old fill tube, pulled it out, placed finger-screw on water line, screwed it on, put in new fill tube, re-screwed fill tube in place, put refrigerator back into place. Done!

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Removed themostat cover with screw driver, unpluged thermostat, pluged in new thermostat, reinstalled cover. Thats it, very easy.

Since the defrost timer turns the cooling functions on and off for each defrost cycle if seemed the most likely problem. That was confirmed by manually advancing the timer with a screw driver and the cooling functions would resume and run until the next defrost cycle (every 8 hours or so). The repair itself was to swap out the timer which took five minutes with a #2 phillips screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. Once the timer was removed from the cover plate there's a simple plug-in connector to remove from the old and plug into the new timer. Two machine screws hold the timer in place behind the cover plate. Be sure switch the power off on the compressor cabinet before removing the cover plate.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

took a voltage check to ensure had 120vac to the motor and did. Ordered new evap fan motor, installed, refrig works as good as ever now. Thanks for your website.