YKERS807SS04 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Remove the oven from the wall
Remove the rear panel
Remove the 2 bottom panels
Lift and fold back the insulation
Remove the element enclosure
Replace the element
Reverse the steps to assemble

* the oven would not preheat and the top elements were working

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

Quickly

Remove and replace oven door hinges. Disassembly of oven door unit required. Step by step instructions available on youtube.

First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.

Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has the part down pat for us layman repair people.

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

Using the video from PartSelect I followed the steps shown. Sliding the range out was difficult so I tilted it forward resting the frame on a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I did have to crimp on a new terminal. The repair was straightforward.

Turned the power power off. unscrewed two screws under the front face plate with the oven door open. Lifted up and over and the front face plate came off. Unscrewed the 2 screws hold the nob in place and disconnected the wires. Screwed the new one in place and connected the wires. Put the face plate back and turned the power back on.

Repair was really simple. Saw that the outer shielding on the existing heat element had degraded and ordered a new element. Part was shipped to my house in two days. Actually took me longer to get the oven door off than to replace the element because the left bracket on the door was slightly bent. Element came out after removing 4 screws and disconnecting 4 wire terminals. I was able to do the repair inside the oven and did not have to pull it away from the wall as the wires were long enough to pull through. I used some painter's tape to tape down the disconnected wires so they would not fall back behind the oven. Then I used a needle-nosed pliers to slightly crimp the wire terminal to the heat element and screwed in the four screws. That was it! Never did this type of repair before and it was really easy. Also estimate that for my 20-25 minutes of work I probably saved over $200 in parts and labor if I hired someone to do it.