YKEBS107DT6 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Removed the door from oven removed screws from door and replaced the old hinges with new ones perfect match

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Several professional appliance repair people told me I had to get a new oven (double, no less!) because "they don't make that hinge anymore." That would have been a $4-5K investment to replace two ovens that both work fine. I'm not generally a DIY person, but was inspired by a FB page I follow called "Handy Women." I got the model number out of my oven, googled "replacement hinge for ____," and found it on this site right away. $120 and about 1 week later I had my hinges. I found this video in the comments on this website that shows (without narration) exactly how to change the hinges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzQuU2gZYhk
The only mistake I made that cost me some time had to do with the little pins you have to put into the hinge to remove and replace the oven door. They were missing from the old hinges, and it didn't occur to me to use the ones that were in the new hinges (hadn't unboxed when I started.) I used threaded bolts that were the right diameter and length. They slid right in, but then when I went to take them out, it was an ordeal with WD-40 and an Allen wrench. Then it still didn't occur to me to look at the new ones, so I went to the hardware store and bought two more things the right size without threads. Of course when I took the new hinges out of the boxes they already had the little pins in them. Annoying and time consuming rookie mistake, but my oven door now closes just fine, and I'm getting a ridiculous amount of satisfaction from my little repair job!

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Read the instructions in installation manual to remove door. Kept removing screws. Was surprised to find two panes of glass between the inner glass and the outer glass. Cleaned all the glass (4) and the inside of the door. Looks brand new. Be careful with the insulation; be sure it is pushed back or it will show from the outside.

removed door from oven, took all screws off door to remove glass, put new glass in place, put oven door back together, put oven door back onto the oven

I removed the Oven door, unscrew 10 screws, open up the dor case, clean all glass levels, replace inner glass, reassembled the door, reinstalled the door to the appliance.

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures

Unlocked the latches that hold door into oven. Removed door to work on it. Disassembled door by removing all the screws that hold it together. Removed two other glass sheets to access location. Cleaned out broken glass. Installed new glass sheet and reinstalled two other glass sheets. Reassembled door and reinstalled in oven. Not difficult, just a fair number of parts and pieces to take apart and put back together.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.

Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.