YGSC308PJB2 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

A screw on the botton of the door was very inaccessible and difficult to remove. The rest of the process was flawless.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.

I just placed the tray in and was done. The kicker is that i cannot use my microwave without the tray. so i was without my microwave for 2 weeks before i called parts select. they were quick and fast.

Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

Open the door and removed the 2 screws that hold the front
glass and stainless steel panel (Hold on to the door handle
or the face and glass will come crashing to the floor; learned this after the first time a couple of years ago $$$). Set the stainless steel panel in a safe area until ready for reassembly.
Next, you must remove the black plastic cover which is still
remaining on the door in order to get to the springs. There are 2 screws that hold the plastic cover which are difficult
to access without removing the side and bottom trim of the
microwave opening. The spring was easy to replace at this point and didn't require any tools; just observe when taking
the broken one off, plus you can use the other spring as a
go by. Replace the black plastic cover, the bottom trim, the
side trims and the stainless door panel and it's complete!

Just had to remove the screws holding the outer part of the door on (didn't have to take off the entire door). Using the other door spring (most models have two that cross) as an example, the new spring was fairly easy to place. Only problem is that the new spring was made from a smaller gauge metal and is not nearly as strong as the original, making the door feel heavier when opening/closing than before. The difference with and without the 2nd spring is barely noticeable. Had I known that they were making the parts cheaper now, I would'nt have bothered fixing it at all.

The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

Turned off breaker to oven. Removed 2 screws, used pliers to remove 2 wires from old element, replaced with new part, connected wires to new element and screwed in 2 screws. Turned on breaker, then oven and new element heated. Very easy!