Models > YGSC308PJB0 > Instructions

YGSC308PJB0 Whirlpool Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for YGSC308PJB0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YGSC308PJB0
1-15 of 177
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Broke the glass panel inside the oven door -- dropped a baking dish on the glass!

  • Customer: Robert from Wildwood MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 78 of 103 people found this instruction helpful
Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!

No heat after cleaning oven

  • Customer: Frederick from St. Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 52 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.

Oven buzzed and no heat

  • Customer: Joseph from Saint Charles IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 35 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
First took down the hood/microwave and removed the sheet metal housing.
I changed HV diode as it was the least expensive component and the first one that internet suggested and tested bad with a ohm meter. Didn't fix a thing.
Capacitor failed test with meter so I ordered and then replaced this.
Still no change so I ordered a new magnetron.
Now I have over $100 invested in a 9 year old oven but a new one is three times this so if my time is free I am still ahead.
The magnetron may be the first part installed onto the oven. To remove the old magnetron and install the new the top plastic vent hood moldings and motor had to be removed. Pretty straight forward but not a little amount of work.
The new magnetron did the job and the oven now heats like new.

Light out and Door spring broken

  • Customer: Lance from Angels Camp CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
Remove side deco strips to remove screws that hold to cabinet. Pull microwave out and set on saw horses (power cable should be long enough to do this). Remove screws to top cover and lift enough to remove all connectors from the front panel pcb. Remove grounding wires from next top lid. Remove connectors from transformer on rigt side and the two connectionss at the rear fan assy. Remove top cover/vent assy. Remove the next top cover to get access to the light bulb assy. Use a cloth or kleenex while handling the new bulb as you replace it. The clip thta holds the bulb is easily released and use reverse procedure when assembling. For springs those can be replaced without removing the microwave from the cabinet. Remove the 2 screws that hold the door together accessed from the inside of the door at top. Pull door up to release from the clip at the bottom. Remove the broken spring and replace with new one. Use a screwdriver to help twist the torsion spring to clip into place. Replace door assy in reverse order.

Cracked the inner door glass by wiping with wet rag when hot

  • Customer: James from Renton WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by following the straightforward instructions in the user's manual. Removed philips head screws to take the door assembly apart. Removed clips holding the two inner door glass plates, and the two plates. Removed the clamp holding the broken glass plate, then the glass and associated glass fragments. Then cleaned and re-installed the three glass plates and their clamps in reverse order. Re-assembled the door and re-attached to the oven. Only cautionary note is to be careful when removing, handling and re-installing the various glass plates. Watch out for fragments from the broken plate; they can cut you and/or fall on the floor.

I broke the Bake Element while cleaning the oven.

  • Customer: Daniel from Cheraw SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.

Replacing Top Oven Inner Glass Door

  • Customer: Melissa from Stockton CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
We had to remove two screws from the bottom of the outer glass door that held two brackets. Those brackets held the glass door in place. Then we had to remove two more layers of glass after that using a screwdriver. Then the inner glass, which was the one broken, we had to use pliers to bend the metal tabs that were holding it in place. We got the new glass in, bent the metal tabs back, returned the other two layers of glass, and then slide the outside glass door back in and returned the two brackets at the bottom. The hardest part was figuring out how to get started. Once we removed those bottom brackets, it was pretty easy after that.

Microwave glass turntable when pop

  • Customer: Liza from Monterey CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less than 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.

Microwave turntable does not work

  • Customer: Todd from San Bernardino CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

cracked iner door glass

  • Customer: william from albuquerque NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Important note: hinges are left and right do not mix them up or door will not re-assemble properly and you'll get to do it twice.

Steps I took:

Removed the oven door per the instructions in the oven operator manual. Removed several screws to release the interior steel liner.

Removing the steel liner was a bit of a hassle, Had to manipulate it to get it loose but it eventually came away from the stainless steel exterior door panel.

Disassembled the interior glass layers, there are three. The glass you need to replace is the last layer, of course. removed and discarded the broken glass. Note: the interior glass is not secured by a bracket or screws, it is held in place by compression of the interior steel liner and a another liner that is inside the door assembly (you'll figure this out when you dis-assemble).

Another note: there is a fluffy material gasket between these two liners, use care when you disassemble or the fluffy gasket will turn into confetti.

Take the opportunity to clean all glass and parts of the accumulated oven grease.

Re-assembled door and re-installed...looks good.

Another note, getting the door back together requires a little patience because there are clamping overlaps of the steel liner to the SS exterior door panel. Be prepared to jockey things around a little and make sure all your screw holes are all lined up before you begin to button it up. Remember, hinges are left and right they are not interchangeable.

Oven wouldn't heat after cleaning cycle

  • Customer: Devin from Platte City MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.

My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.

  • Customer: Lindsay from Nampa ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 67 of 178 people found this instruction helpful
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You

The original blower squirrel cage failed out balance.

  • Customer: Joseph from North Grosvenordale CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Safety first , I shut off the circuit breaker . I removed the racks from inside the wall oven . I removed the the wall oven from the niche .Then removed the three sheet metal panels in the rear of the oven exposing the mounting screws that hold the blower down .I removed the wires from the blower motor and then the blower assembly ,then I removed the small duct affixed to the blower assembly by a single sheet metal screw and transferred it to the new blower assembly . I installed the adhesive backed foam strip that is a vibration dampener and reassembled in reverse order.Once the over was returned to its original position in the wall mounting I turned the breakers back on and tested the oven ...AAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ To be fair i must admit that I am not a novice at this 15 years of my working career revolved around HVAC and appliance repair ,still however a novice that is mechanically inclined can perform the same task in about 70 to 80 minutes as opposed to my 35 . That is all there is to it.

Door was accidentally broken by 5 year old child

  • Customer: Leonard from Auburn AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Just removed two screws that held the top brackets on, and cleaned out the old broken glass. When the part came it, installed the two top brackets to the glass and then slide the glass into the two bottom brackets and screwed the top brackets in place. Whole job took about 20 minutes.

Original oven gasket had discolored and deteriated, mainly due to use of oven cleaner.

  • Customer: Ralph from Green Bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the bottom gasket retainer , single screw, with a screwdriver. The old gasket just pulls away. I cleaned the area under the old gasket with soap and water. I installed the new gasket whcih easily slips in place with the already installed retainer wires into the pre drilled holes.

Viola. Lokks like new.
All Instructions for the YGSC308PJB0
1-15 of 177