YG224LV Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

The video you had of my dryer was different then my dryer and the pulley was in the middle of the bottom and the motor and fan were in front of it. I had to replace the belt without being able to see what I was doing. I couldn't get it at first then realized there was tension on the pulley wheel and had to pull it towards the other wheel in order to get the belt on there. Once I pulled the wheel it went on really easy. My first time working on a dryer but I knew I could do it myself.

Pulled out AC cord from wall socket first! Removed the dryer door and front panel (2 screws each) Then pulled both wire connectors off 2 coils. Removed hold -down bracket over coils. Replaced both coils and reconnect . No need to replace electronic igniter for gas. The right parts were shipped faster than I expected. Easy job. The Maytag repairman remained unemployed once again!

instructions were clear and repair was easy

Well, to Figure the issue I took the entire thing apart. Actually a lot more than needed. I found the torn belt and ordered it. I did not realize I may need a new belt tensioner which is sold with a wheel for the belt to wrap around and be tensioned by. Actually the original just utilized a rubber c or u shaped design(no wheel) for the belt to slide over. Anyways, instead of ordering and waiting for a new wheeled belt tensioner, I installed new belt with all original parts and working fine. I did oil up the drum rollers to reduce noise. And since I took the whole thing apart I cleaned the lint from every place it could hide. Ps a coke can is said to be helpful to hold the drum up while installing the belt but I found a jug of laundry detergent did better. Totally easy project for someone with no appliance repair history

The broken belt was found when I opened the dryer. The part number was on the belt and a quick online search led me to PartSelect. The part was available, delivered in less than 2 days and there was an online video showing the entire repair in detail.

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

At first I thought I had the wrong part. But a quick call to the service number solved the problem. Seems the only part now available is a double wide strip with two sets of molded clips. Simple solution was to pull the strip apart into two. Worked like a charm.

I went with the majority and started with replacing the thermostat and thermal fuse. It fixed the problem, and all for about $30. The repair was easy, although you do have to do some finger gymnastics to get at the thermal fuse. Of course, I wanted to know why the fuse blew in the first place. I had cleaned the interior of the dryer out last year and I wasn't seeing much of a build up. I then removed all 20 feet of the dryer vent hose and cleaned it out with a kit (LintEatr, about $30)that attaches to your cordless drill. I pulled out a shopping bag full of lint. My clothes used to take up to 3 cycles to dry and now it is back to 1. Clean out your vent hose, people! P.S. There must be a reason for it, but it would be much easier if the fuse had a reset like other heating units do, instead of having to open the dryer up and replace parts.

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.

The parts are preventative. They will be installed the NEXT time the machine breaks down. Typical roller squeal that comes back every year or so. I popped the top like usual, swung open the front panel, lifted out the drum and set it aside. Discovered the rear roller shafts had become scored, so in addition to cleaning and re-lubing and reassembling for the immediate dryer loads, I ordered the rear drum rollers and shaft studs kit, as well as a set of Teflon glides for the front of the drum, which were growing thin, and finished by ordering a new belt. Cleaned the accumulated lint out of the blower / filter body since I was in there anyway. This is the second time I'm putting new Teflon, and the first time I'm putting new rear rollers and shafts. I've never let the machine run on failing rollers by more than a few minutes here and there. The new parts will go in the next time the rollers begin to squeal, or if any rubbing is heard, indicating the Teflon glides may have failed first.

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!