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Models > YG20JN2 Maytag > Instructions

YG20JN2 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for YG20JN2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YG20JN2
76-90 of 436
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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught

  • Customer: Cathy from Dallastown, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.

dryer made a horrible racket when running

  • Customer: cheryl from international falls, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
my ex husband took the top and front of dryer off and removed the drum and belt. he pulled off the worn roller and replaced it with the new one. we put the drum in backwards and had to turn it around but all went well and the dryer is quiet again!!!

squealing/squeaking noise

  • Customer: Damon from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It took me a bit to figure out how to get the outer case to come apart (there are two spring-loaded latches under the front edge of the lid, had to insert a putty knife at just the right spot then lift up the lid). Once it was taken apart, I manually spun the drum to see where the noise was coming from and it was obviously coming from one of the two wheels that support the rear of the drum. Took out the drum after sliding the belt off and replacing the wheels was a piece of cake. They are held on by E-clip style retaining rings, which I destroyed when removing them with a pair of pliers. Luckily the new set comes with new retaining rings, along with the required washers and spacers. I also replaced the metal pins that the wheels spin on, since mine were showing wear and I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to keep squealing after I was done! All in all it was pretty easy! Before you take the belt off, make sure you take note of how the belt winds around the tension wheel so that you put it back on correctly! My girlfriend was VERY impressed that I was able to fix her dryer for about 1/10 of what it would have cost to get a new one!

Dryer would not dry igniter went bad

  • Customer: mike from lemont, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Easy Job.
First take a flat head screw driver and pop the top placing the screwdriver in between the front panel. The top of the dryer should pop up.
Then just pull it up and over towards the back.

Then unscrew the front panel and move it out of the way leaveing the front door atached to the panel.
Once you open the front panel' You can pull the dryer tub out by sliding it out and at the same time you need to push the belt towards the back of the tub until it comes off.
Now you can get to the ingiter by first disamablethe gas
housing first.
Simply by taking one screw off and disconnecting the gas line fitting in front of the dryer. Also disconnect the 3 sets of wires that are connected to that piece and the igniter.
The hole piece will then come out with the igniter attached to it.
Next disconnect the igniter from the piece and replace it with new one.
Then put back togather the same way you took it apart.
Reinstalling the tub.
When it's time to put the tub back in; there's a trick to that.
Put tub in about 3/4 of the way in, put the belt around the tub and let the rest hang to the floor inside dryer.then crawl into the tub and stetch your head and arm through the tub on the back side.
Then you can get to the belt and route it into the motor and the pully that is spring loaded it makes it so much easer that way then trying to run the belt and route it in place from the top. Once that is done now you can adjust belt back to its orignal position then push the tub back in place. Reinstall fron panel and your their.
Total cost 36.00 plus shipping. Thats a lot cheaper then a sevice call and labor

No Problem, Old filter had seen better days.

  • Customer: Ruth V from Westminster, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
No Repair, just replacement. Went perfect.

No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

The dryer door latch was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Dryer making loud squeaky noise from rear rollers

  • Customer: Mary from Richmond, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

No heat...

  • Customer: Charles from Long Beach, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

loud bumping on start up, noisy running

  • Customer: Sue from Hardeeville, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged, loosened front cover, disconnected two wires from door open indicator, removed front cover with screw driver. Removed air flow cover with screw driver. Used pliers and retaining ring pliers to remove old blower wheel, my husband calls it a "squirrel cage". Installed new blower wheel and reassembled. It was all easy to see and get to. Thanks for having the right part. Sue.

Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off

  • Customer: William from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

blower wheel broke

  • Customer: Donna from McCloud, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Lifted hood ,and took two screws and tilted the front back and remove the door switch , and took front off ,use little socket set, took cover off fan housing took pliers removed clamp on fan , remove key way on end ,slid fan off and put new one on and reverse the way if came off.

Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint

  • Customer: Kathleen from Belmont, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructions. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso

Too much drying time, not hot enough

  • Customer: John from Floyd, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.

  • Customer: Tom from Schaumburg, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
All Instructions for the YG20JN2
76-90 of 436