Models > YG20JN2 Maytag > Instructions

YG20JN2 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for YG20JN2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YG20JN2
76-90 of 436
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

the glow ignitor would not cycle on

  • Customer: Georgio from Oradell, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

No Problem, Old filter had seen better days.

  • Customer: Ruth V from Westminster, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
No Repair, just replacement. Went perfect.

squealing/squeaking noise

  • Customer: Damon from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It took me a bit to figure out how to get the outer case to come apart (there are two spring-loaded latches under the front edge of the lid, had to insert a putty knife at just the right spot then lift up the lid). Once it was taken apart, I manually spun the drum to see where the noise was coming from and it was obviously coming from one of the two wheels that support the rear of the drum. Took out the drum after sliding the belt off and replacing the wheels was a piece of cake. They are held on by E-clip style retaining rings, which I destroyed when removing them with a pair of pliers. Luckily the new set comes with new retaining rings, along with the required washers and spacers. I also replaced the metal pins that the wheels spin on, since mine were showing wear and I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to keep squealing after I was done! All in all it was pretty easy! Before you take the belt off, make sure you take note of how the belt winds around the tension wheel so that you put it back on correctly! My girlfriend was VERY impressed that I was able to fix her dryer for about 1/10 of what it would have cost to get a new one!

The dryer door latch was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

blower wheel broke

  • Customer: Donna from McCloud, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Lifted hood ,and took two screws and tilted the front back and remove the door switch , and took front off ,use little socket set, took cover off fan housing took pliers removed clamp on fan , remove key way on end ,slid fan off and put new one on and reverse the way if came off.

Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off

  • Customer: William from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

loud bumping on start up, noisy running

  • Customer: Sue from Hardeeville, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged, loosened front cover, disconnected two wires from door open indicator, removed front cover with screw driver. Removed air flow cover with screw driver. Used pliers and retaining ring pliers to remove old blower wheel, my husband calls it a "squirrel cage". Installed new blower wheel and reassembled. It was all easy to see and get to. Thanks for having the right part. Sue.

Dryer making loud squeaky noise from rear rollers

  • Customer: Mary from Richmond, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.

  • Customer: Joseph from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint

  • Customer: Kathleen from Belmont, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructions. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso

Too much drying time, not hot enough

  • Customer: John from Floyd, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.

  • Customer: Tom from Schaumburg, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

ignitor failed to ignite gas or would fail to after first ignition.

  • Customer: CHUCK from HARDIN, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

Noise And Vibration While Drying

  • Customer: Peter from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
After reading everyone else's comments I started by pulling out the dryer, unplugging the power and exhaust. Next moved the dryer to an area where I had room to lay it on the back. Then using a flat blade screw driver, I popped the top attached tape to the top so I could lean back the top without having to hold it. Removed the two screws from the front panel and removed the door safety shut off before removed the front panel. Then I layed the dryer on its back. Then reached under the drum, pushed the belt tensioner toward the motor puller to release the tension on the belt. Then slid the belt to the base. Pulled the drum up and out of the cabinet. Next I cleaned all the lint and crud out of the dryer components. To remove the clips that hold the rollers in place, I use 2 small flat blade screw drivers. These are inserted at the back side of the horse show shaped clip between the shaft and the clip. When the two screw drivers are rotated like turning a screw they slide the clip out. Next I used a socket wrench with a #8 metric socket(I didn't have the sae size) and removed the screws holding the drum roller brackets. I simply reversed the procedure to install the new rollers. Since the dryer was on its back, when I put the drum back in, its own weight slipped it in place. Then pulled the belt around the drum and between the motor pulley and the belt tensioner. Holding the belt with one hand, I used the other hand to pushed the belt tensioner in and positioned the belt. Then I stood the unit back upright and put the front cover on, replaced the door safety switch, removing the tape holding the lid and then cloed the lid. Of course I put the dryer back in place, leveled it, and it now runs like brand new. My thanks to every one else who gave me hints that saved be about $450!
All Instructions for the YG20JN2
76-90 of 436