Models > YG20JN2 Maytag > Instructions

YG20JN2 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for YG20JN2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YG20JN2
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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught

  • Customer: Cathy from Dallastown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.

Motor froze up

  • Customer: Randy from Loganville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First lift the top and remove 2 screws holding the front panel on, at each top corner. Release the door switch from its clip (or disconnect the wires). Remove the front panel by tilting out and then lifting it up off the bottom tabs. Remove the belt from the motor by releasing the tensioner. Then lift the drum out. Remove the front blower cover, then remove the tensioner by first removing the spring, then pull the tensioner out toward the back. Remove the strap on the back of the motor near the pulley. It takes a little effort to get the strap off. Remove the 3 bolts holding the blower case (with the motor still attached. Remove the motor wires, then lift the motor and blower case out. Next remove the clip holding the blower fan on and remove the fan. It may be stubborn so be patient and slowly work it off. Remove the next clip behind the fan. Then remove the motor from the blower case by turning it counter clockwise (as viewed from the motor side). Installation is the reverse.

Stopped running entirely.

  • Customer: Mark from Mesa AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer stopped cold one day, we rushed out and bought a new one. Stuck with a broken dryer I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it (with zero experience). After a few minutes on the internet I found out that a clogged vent can cause it to overheat and blow the fuse. I opened it up and sure enough it was 100% clogged. I replaced the parts that came in the kit and after about 20min it was running like a champ. Now what do I do with the extra dryer?

NO HEAT

  • Customer: NICHOLAS from PARMA OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I SUSPECTED A FAULTY IGNITER AND DISCONNECTED THE CABLE TO THE IGNITER AND MEASURED THE RESISTANCE OF THE IGNITER AND FOUND IT TO BE 70 OHMS THEN I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE AT THE SAME CABLE TOWARDS THE POWER SOURCE AND FOUND IT TO BE 25 VOLTS AC WHICH SHOULD BE 120 VOLTS AC. NEXT I CHECKED THE RADIANT FLAME SENSOR AND FOUND IT TO BE OPEN (IT SHOULD BE A CLOSED CIRCUIT WHEN COLD). I REMOVED THE FLAME SENSOR (WITH THE POWER OFF) USING A SMALL BOX WRENCH AND FOUND A BROKEN LEAD. REPLACING THE FLAME SENSOR SOLVED THE PROBLEM.

Dryer not Drying

  • Customer: Manuel from Jurupa Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

the glow ignitor would not cycle on

  • Customer: Georgio from Oradell NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Blower wheel broke and makeing loud clunking noise

  • Customer: Lawrence from Clifton Forge VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
1st thing,,,,unplug dryer from electric,,,Raised the top of dryer, took 2 screws out that held front of dryer on, removed 3 wires and dropped front of dryer. exposed blower wheel,, removed all nuts holding front of blower wheel, removed clamp on front of wheel with pliers, removed old wheel, replaced everything in reverse.

My lint filter had developed holes.

  • Customer: Barbara from Oak Park IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was supper easy. I was able to order the correct part from the detailed description you provided. I just opened it and slid it into the slot for a perfect fit.

I wish I had done it sooner. My filter had holes in it for some time.

Dryer making loud squeaky noise from rear rollers

  • Customer: Mary from Richmond TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

No Power

  • Customer: James from Berlin Hts. OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, hence the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.

No heat

  • Customer: Philip from La Palma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.

  • Customer: Joseph from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

no heat was being produced

  • Customer: reinaldo from guttenberg NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.

  • Customer: Tom from Schaumburg IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
All Instructions for the YG20JN2
61-75 of 402