YG20JN2 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

Opened the dryer door - removed two screws on the left and two screws on the right - pulled the front panel forward and lifted it up to remove. The coils were located on the bottom right hand corner of the dryer, I vacuumed he area and then removed the two screws and bracket which hold the coil in place. Lifted the new coils off paying close attention to their orientation. Installed new coils. Align tab on top of coils with bracket. installed bracket and screws. Tested dryer and then replaced front cover. Very easy and rewarding.

Identified the rollers as the root cause of the drum not freely rotating. They also squeaked a little at the beginning of any cycle. I replaced the rear rollers and shafts using the parts from the roller replacement kit. Easy to do. The hardest parts was re-installing the belt.

looked up model on partselect and used the part by symptom section, chose the"will not start" symptom, based on that, the high limit kit seemed obvious, ordered part,received part in two days. watched repair video on this web site, followed the instructions, which were very clear, after unplugging the dryer, replaced both limit switches using nut driver, couldn't have been easier! I echo what other reviewers have said, you have customer for life! well thought out website providing excellent service to a person who wants to understand how things work and then fix it.

Ordered part ( door latch ) flowed instructions easily fixed same.

Pulled out AC cord from wall socket first! Removed the dryer door and front panel (2 screws each) Then pulled both wire connectors off 2 coils. Removed hold -down bracket over coils. Replaced both coils and reconnect . No need to replace electronic igniter for gas. The right parts were shipped faster than I expected. Easy job. The Maytag repairman remained unemployed once again!

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

At first I thought I had the wrong part. But a quick call to the service number solved the problem. Seems the only part now available is a double wide strip with two sets of molded clips. Simple solution was to pull the strip apart into two. Worked like a charm.

I went with the majority and started with replacing the thermostat and thermal fuse. It fixed the problem, and all for about $30. The repair was easy, although you do have to do some finger gymnastics to get at the thermal fuse. Of course, I wanted to know why the fuse blew in the first place. I had cleaned the interior of the dryer out last year and I wasn't seeing much of a build up. I then removed all 20 feet of the dryer vent hose and cleaned it out with a kit (LintEatr, about $30)that attaches to your cordless drill. I pulled out a shopping bag full of lint. My clothes used to take up to 3 cycles to dry and now it is back to 1. Clean out your vent hose, people! P.S. There must be a reason for it, but it would be much easier if the fuse had a reset like other heating units do, instead of having to open the dryer up and replace parts.

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect