YG20HN3C Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

i ordered a new filter and put in in the dryer to replace the broken one. everything worked out fine. and is working fine now.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

Very easy

I have to admit I did not fix this. This dryer is at our beach house and my daughter and her family went down with part in tow. My son in law is an engineer and very smart and handy. He had the dryer purring like a kitten in no te with the part ordered. Thank you Lord and Will!!

followed u tube videos (several) did not find exact model. took dryer outside to disassemble and "clean out" with air hose and shop vac. Easily got it apart and replaced rollers,belt. to reassemble the idler unit was nearly impossible to reset as the motor and fan assembly is in FRONT very hard to see and get hands in. So, took my cut off wheel op grinder and "removed" the lower louvers on back. Viola simple as pie!

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

first I took a flat head screw driver to pop the top of the dryer open, and then removed the screws from the lint tray. Next I lifted the lip back making sure it was supported by the wall behind. Third I removed the front of the unit by removing the bolts attached on both ends of the top of the unit. I then opened the door and removed the screws on the right top side of the lining of the door to the switch. Then I carefully held onto the tub while lifting the front face of the unit to remove the face of the dryer. After carefully removing the face I released the tub and set it aside. Then I picked up the tension pulley set it back in its slot followed by placing the belt rib side down around the tub. Next step was to place the tub back in the unit making sure the felt was in place and then I ran the belt back through the tension pulley applying tension in order to get the belt back onto the motor making sure the ribs of the belt aligned up with the ribs on the motors belt drive wheel. After completing that I then grabbed the front panel of the dryer unit and gently replaced the panel making sure that the slots and hooks lined up while placing the tub back in alignment of front panel. Once that was complete I replaced the screws in the door switch followed by replacing the bolts in the inside of the top comer of the front panel till hand tight. Last but not least I slid the lint tray back in place in order to make sure screws did not fall in to the hole the lint tray occupies. After replacing the screws I then plugged in the dryer gave the tub a few spins with my hand to make sure it was in place correctly I gave it a test drive by leaving the door open and pressing the door switch shutting off the light in the unit so it since the door was shut and turn the unit on for a cycle for at least one minute to see if the tub rolled freely on its own. All was good and only took 12 minutes to change and replace part. Easley can be done by any DIY first timers. Me I work with all kinds of units but the older units are easy and no need for a tech I promise.

Used the circuit diagram from the dryer compartment to check continuity. found Thermal Fuse open circuit. Viewed PartSelect Youtube video for fitting instructions. Really easy after that.

I'm an ex auto mechanic so I'm pretty good w/my hands. I just followed your instructions on a video you provided & it was really easy. Thanks!

After I watched the video I read other people's repairs and used both to get the belt changed.The dryer is old, I believe it is from the 70's. We took the front off and then laid the dryer on its back for easier access, looped the belt as described on the video, turned the drum counter clock-wise and then reattached the front. It was very simple thanks to the video and other people's suggestions. Dryer works great and very happy it turned out to be an easy fix.

usually run through these tests first before I have to open until the unit.. establish that your 240 volt breaker didn't trip... If the breaker is okay... Unplug the dryer and use a multimeter to ensure you have 240 volts at the receptacle... If you are okay there... next check the door switch... You can press the button and you should hear a click... If you hear it click you should be okay there... Okay let's open the top... There are 2 black latches on the unit towards each side... You can use a flathead screwdriver or a putty knife to depress the clips while pulling gently upwards on the lid and it will open...from past experience fixing dryers I knew that more than likely it was the thermal fuse.... With the unit still unplugged... Look towards the back of the unit you will see the heating element...There is a thermostat and the thermal fuse on the bracket with the element... The thermal fuse is the small black and silver thing about the diameter of a dime. What the thermal fuse does is protects the unit if it should get too hot... pretty much a safety mechanism... What you want to do is remove the screw holding the little bracket that houses the fuse and remove it... It is a little tight back there this is why I remove it...Next remove the 2 wires and test the fuse using a continuity test making sure that you have a closed circuit... If it's an open circuit that would be your problem... Order the high limit thermostat kit... You should replace the thermostat also which comes in the kit...remove the 2 screws holding the thermostat down and once you get your replacement parts just replace the thermostat and fuse and you'll be good to go...

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.