Models > YG20HN3 Maytag > Instructions

YG20HN3 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for YG20HN3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YG20HN3
61-75 of 791
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Dryer would not come on

  • Customer: Max from Wylie, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Verified power to the dryer with a volt meter. Identified the high limit fuses under the top cover. I used an ohm meter to determine the fuse located on the heater housing assembly was bad. The fuse located at the top (blue label) was not bad but I changed it since a new one was sent in the kit. Reassembled the dryer and it has been working ever since. Found the problem on a Monday and ordered the part. Received the part on Wednesday and the problem was solved. Cost me about $31. Would have been triple that if a repairman would have been called. Thanks PartsSelect

Mother-in-law's dryer quit heating. Her's was LPG, Replacment was NG

  • Customer: ROBERT from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First, I inserted a screwdriver between the front panel and the top and popped the top loose. Next, there is a screw close to the top of the front panel on each side. Remove these. Next I unplugged the light switch from the front panel and removed the panel. Next, unscrew the gas line from the burner assy. and remove the screw holding the burner assy. to the frame. CAREFULLY, remove the burner assy. taking care not to break the ceramic igniter. Remove the assembly and unscrew the brass screw on the right side of the burner. Replace the screw with the new assembly furnished with the conversion kit. Remove the tube that directs the gas to the ducting. Unscrew the orifice fitting and replace with the new fittings furnished with the kit. Reinstall the tube and CAREFULLY return the burner assembly to the dryer. Screw the assy to the frame and re-connect the gas line. Replace the front panel, 2 screws, and snap the top back down onto the front panel, taking care to align the two guide pins. Connect the gas line to the dryer and install the ducting. Plug it in and test for leaks.

sometimes it would heat, and other times it did not.

  • Customer: Joseph from Painesville Twp., OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unplug dryer, lift top, remove 2 screws holding front, lift & swing front to right, use nutdriver to remove two screws holding igniter and other piece attached with same screws, a couple wiggles and out, unplugged igniter, plug in new, reposition new igniter and other piece, replace screws, repositioned front panel, replaced front panel screws, dropped top back in place, plugged in and wha-la. Heat.
Original Igniter had a hairline crack in it causing it to intermittantly fire. Thanks PartSelect, right part and speedy delivery.

Originally Noisey While Running

  • Customer: Gary from Park Hills, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged electric, turned off gas valve. Opened top using a putty knife, laid it gently back against the wall for support. Removed 2 screws holding front on-leaned front out about 3-4 inches- while holding front with my knees I disconnected door switch wires.-then removed front panel. Followed instructions on maintenance sheet glued on underside of dryer top (Lucky it was there). Took tension off drive belt. Removed belt and drum following instructions on lid sheet. Removed old slides (worn out) Installed new pads & slides. Vacuumed out all lint/dust/dirt I could reach, Cheked rear drum rollers. Reinstalled everything that I had removed. It took extra time to do everything because dryer was in tight space, little working space. Turned gas on, plugged in electric cord. Worked great now.

Dryer declined to work- at all

  • Customer: William from Beacon, NY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Web search to determine probable cause then search to find parts. Parts Select came through with the parts and quickly. Opened the top of the dryer (after disconnect from power-hate the smell of burning flesh) and found the parts that had up and died. Removed two screws for first part then one more and a lot of cursing to remove the other. Reassembled in reverse order, more cursing the tight space. Dryer back in service, wife happy. Only minor blood loss from sharp parts of machine. Success!

No Heat After 10 Minutes

  • Customer: lawrence from GROTON, VT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

dryer not heating

  • Customer: john from saint charles, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the top by gently prying between the top and cabinet after first unplugging the cord. . 1/4" nut driver used to remove the thermal switch from the bracket . thermal fuse was connected with two white wires and immediately below the thermal switch. remove the heating element for access to the thermal fuse. replace parts and reassemble.

extremely noisy operation

  • Customer: Paul from Daly City, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged unit, opened lid, removed 2 screws & door switch from front panel, removed front panel & drum.
Removed clips & washers from rear roller shafts, removed 2 screws (each) attaching rear roller shafts to rear of unit. Replaced rear roller shafts, thrust washers, rollers & clips. Removed clip from belt tensioner idler arm, replaced idler pulley wheel & clip.
pulled tensioner toward motor side and locked in place with broomstick. Placed new belt over drum & installed drum/belt into unit, engaging rear drum lip over new rear drum support rollers. Guided belt
over motor shaft and slowly released broomstick to
tension belt. Turned drum by hand to ckeck belt tracking. Reinstalled front panel & door switch, installed 2 screws holding front panel to case. Closed lid. Plugged unit in & tested for proper operation-OK.

Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.

  • Customer: Roger from Westminster, SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Lint screen assembly holder had broken

  • Customer: George from Vernon, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped

Dryer Spinsbut does not Dry!!!!

  • Customer: Felix from Plano, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Quick fix it works
remove the two screws holding the top from the back. Pull out the top section with the knobs
You should now be able to see the high limit fuse and the heating element.
Remove the two screws holding the fuse to the dryer. Replace the fuse and test before covering.
Also clean up the heating element with a soft brush or blower.

Stopped running entirely.

  • Customer: Mark from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer stopped cold one day, we rushed out and bought a new one. Stuck with a broken dryer I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it (with zero experience). After a few minutes on the internet I found out that a clogged vent can cause it to overheat and blow the fuse. I opened it up and sure enough it was 100% clogged. I replaced the parts that came in the kit and after about 20min it was running like a champ. Now what do I do with the extra dryer?

dryer not heating up

  • Customer: Richard from New Windsor, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

Dryer was squealing while spinning

  • Customer: Dale from YONKERS, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electric wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.

My lint filter had developed holes.

  • Customer: Barbara from Oak Park, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
It was supper easy. I was able to order the correct part from the detailed description you provided. I just opened it and slid it into the slot for a perfect fit.

I wish I had done it sooner. My filter had holes in it for some time.
All Instructions for the YG20HN3
61-75 of 791