YE20FA1 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

I unclipped the top of the dryer for access to the heating coils. I unscrewed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat (the heating element was directly below the high limit thermostat). I removed one screw holding the heating element in place, and then removed the faulty heating element. I checked the old heating element and the old high limit thermostat with a multimeter to confirm that they were faulty - both the heating coil and the HL thermostat had continuity but the coils looked like they needed to be replaced (not rusty, but dingy). I installed the new heating element and the new HL thermostat, closed the top of the dryer and ran the dryer - it worked :) Thanks partselect.com!

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.

took the top and front off the dryer and had to route the new belt around the drum and through the pulleys, it was really easy and a heck of a lot cheaper then buying a new dryer

Called PartSelect, gave them the make and model number of the dryer and told them I needed a new belt for it. They gave me a price including shipment (under $20.00). I oreder the new belt and it arrived within a week. I also got an e-mail from PartSelect with a video showing how to replace the belt. This was very helpful. I was able to watch the video, take the dryer apart, replace the belt (after a few tries), and put the dryer back together. Problem solved! Thanks PartSelect.

Unplug the dryer. Take a large flat head screwdriver and pop the hood loose from the retaining brackets on the front of the dryer and raise.Next, unhook the wiring from the thermostat and heating element with needle nosed pliers located in the back left corner. Use a 5mm socket to remove the thermostat bracket and the heating element bracket.Remove faulty part and replace. Replace heating element and tighten.Replace thermostat on the retaining bracket and tighten. Plug your wires back in and close the hood.Plug Dryer back in.

Found an instructional, easy to follow video by PartSelect online. It was helpful to know what tools I needed before beginning the job. I first purchased only the belt. After taking the dryer apart, I saw the idler had also broke. It was very helpful that the parts arrived quickly. The video was the the greatest tool for doing this repair myself!!!!

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

just like the training video showed, and was very happy at how it came fast, installed easy and back in the drying business.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

first I took a flat head screw driver to pop the top of the dryer open, and then removed the screws from the lint tray. Next I lifted the lip back making sure it was supported by the wall behind. Third I removed the front of the unit by removing the bolts attached on both ends of the top of the unit. I then opened the door and removed the screws on the right top side of the lining of the door to the switch. Then I carefully held onto the tub while lifting the front face of the unit to remove the face of the dryer. After carefully removing the face I released the tub and set it aside. Then I picked up the tension pulley set it back in its slot followed by placing the belt rib side down around the tub. Next step was to place the tub back in the unit making sure the felt was in place and then I ran the belt back through the tension pulley applying tension in order to get the belt back onto the motor making sure the ribs of the belt aligned up with the ribs on the motors belt drive wheel. After completing that I then grabbed the front panel of the dryer unit and gently replaced the panel making sure that the slots and hooks lined up while placing the tub back in alignment of front panel. Once that was complete I replaced the screws in the door switch followed by replacing the bolts in the inside of the top comer of the front panel till hand tight. Last but not least I slid the lint tray back in place in order to make sure screws did not fall in to the hole the lint tray occupies. After replacing the screws I then plugged in the dryer gave the tub a few spins with my hand to make sure it was in place correctly I gave it a test drive by leaving the door open and pressing the door switch shutting off the light in the unit so it since the door was shut and turn the unit on for a cycle for at least one minute to see if the tub rolled freely on its own. All was good and only took 12 minutes to change and replace part. Easley can be done by any DIY first timers. Me I work with all kinds of units but the older units are easy and no need for a tech I promise.

After I watched the video I read other people's repairs and used both to get the belt changed.The dryer is old, I believe it is from the 70's. We took the front off and then laid the dryer on its back for easier access, looped the belt as described on the video, turned the drum counter clock-wise and then reattached the front. It was very simple thanks to the video and other people's suggestions. Dryer works great and very happy it turned out to be an easy fix.

The dryer opens up pretty easily; there are two screws holding the lint filter housing to the top panel that must be removed before the top will come up. The top panel pops open by prying it up with a screw driver. Once it's off there are two screws inside near the top that hold the upper front panel to the sides. There are also two screws that need to be loosened, but not removed, at the very bottom of the upper front panel, accessed by removing the lower front panel which is also popped out by prying (the upper part of the lower panel is pulled straight out, and is held to the bottom of the unit by hinge-like clips). Once the upper front panel is wriggled back the drum will slump off but stay pretty much in place while you set the panel aside (it has an electrical lead that goes to the door-closed sensor, but if you pop its clips loose in a couple spots you'll have enough slack to set it to the side). The drum pulls off easily. You might want to take a photo of the belt/pulley arrangement underneath it before removing everything, as it is not intuitively obvious how the belt runs thru the pulleys. Once the drum is gone vacuum up all that accumulated lint, then pop off the metal clips that hold the motor on. I was surprised at how little holds that motor on; apparently it's enough. Here is where I ran into my one snag: I couldn't unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft, and you have to get that fan off to get the motor out. You're supposed to clamp a wrench on the plastic fan just inside the dryer housing, and unscrew it by turning the shaft from the other side. No go. I eventually drilled a sequence of holes into the plastic around the metal shaft (easy) and could pull the motor out, but of course now I needed a $20 fan replacement. The motor and fan showed up in 2-3 days. Unfortunately, the motor came with a pulley that needed a narrower drive belt than my original. I guess I could have cut the original down, but i just went ahead and ordered a new one ($12). Everything went back together surprisingly easily. Getting the new fan on was much easier than getting that old one off.

take two phillips srews out of lint catch frame. next take a screw driver pry up front top part on dryer.lean back top out of way.take two screws out of top of dryer door. disconnect electrical connection dryer door frame.and pull frame upward and off. you will see roller bracket with end made to put in slott. put it in first slott under belt motor.take belt and pull it through under roller and hook it with screwdriver to motor pulley.by putting the tip of screwdriver on motor pulley with belt on screwdriver and lift up until belt slides on to pulley. make sure you put belt around barrel. before putting belt through roller bracket and on to motor pulley.and use something to put under barrel so it will not get in the way and fall off.

i popped the top off. removed the 2 hex screws in the front upper inner corners. lifted the front panel up about an inch n removed it. pulled the drum out. removed the old broken belt. put the tention roller back into the slots at the bottom panel n base of the motor. mounted the new belt around the motor n thru the tentioner as i placed the drum in position n mounted the belt around the drum. holding the drum in place i replaced the front panel. replaced the hex screws n closed the lid. wah-lah. dryer fixed... thank you parts select

My dryer was made so the fan was not removable and I had to reach through a narrow opening in behind the fan housing to put the belt on the motor pulley. The problem I encountered was that I could only use one hand to push against the idler pulley spring while at the same time try to catch the belt and slip it under the idler pulley. It repeatedly slipped off and every time it did the spring and idler pulley would come loose, and I would have to realign the the idler pulley shaft and attach the spring. After the fifth time I left the spring off, pushed the idler pulley shaft all the way in and put scratch a mark on the shaft on the inside of the first hole it enters. Next I drilled 1/16" hole in the shaft where I marked it, installed the spring and idler pulley then slipped a small cotter pin in the hole I drilled. Now if it slips off I only need to reach back and push the idler pulley up and catch the belt.