Models > YBXR1060T4WW > Instructions

YBXR1060T4WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for YBXR1060T4WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the YBXR1060T4WW
1-15 of 434
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Agitator would not move during wash cycle

  • Customer: Mark from Lexington KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 178 of 207 people found this instruction helpful
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. Insert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.

Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.

  • Customer: Gerald from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 147 of 156 people found this instruction helpful
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)
2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.

NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...

broken dampening strap and loose agitator

  • Customer: molly from laguna niguel CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 119 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u remove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.

Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up

  • Customer: Wayne from Saint Augustine FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 91 of 107 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours.

washer was overfilling

  • Customer: Matthew from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 78 of 90 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the water level pressure switch and the water inlet valve to test parts for proper operation with an ohm meter. Electrically, the switches seemed to work fine so I thought it was probably a mechanical water valve problem. I ordered and replaced both parts anyway just to be sure and potentially save time.

Bearing on the transmission to tub wore out (mostly due to the washer not being level)

  • Customer: Victor from League City TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 76 of 91 people found this instruction helpful
The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.

agitator would not turn during wash cycle

  • Customer: James from Rineyville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 73 of 83 people found this instruction helpful
First raise the lid on the washer then remove the agitator by placing hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart and pulling up. Pulling up one side and then the other until the agiator lifts up and off. Mine was stuck tight so I had to really work it back and forth to get it loose. Be careful while lifting on the agitator because when it comes loose it could hit you in the face since you are over it while lifting. Once you get the agitator off use a 7/16 socket and 3/8 rachet and remove the coupling. Place the new coupling on the shaft, making sure to line up the splines on the shaft and the coupling and install the 7/16 bolt and thighten it. Place the agitator on the coupling by lining up the splines and pushing down on the agitator until it seats. Time to repair was 30 minutes.

GE washer no spinning during spin cycle

  • Customer: Laurence from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 63 of 72 people found this instruction helpful
Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.

washer was overflowing-- not registering that the tub was full

  • Customer: Angie from Saint Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 50 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced both the tube and the pressure switch and still no luck. turns out that i didn't need either part. the little box that the tube hooks on to at the bottom left of the tub had a clog in it. we disconnected the tube from the switch and just blew through it. the clog broke loose and my washer works again!! decided that i was leaving the new parts on the machine. one less thing to worry about in the future.... ????

machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k

  • Customer: douglas from danby VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 34 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.

Leaking oil into the washer (in tub and on clothes)

  • Customer: Scott from Bloomington IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 34 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!

Washer wasn't filling with cold water.

  • Customer: Mary from Hellertown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I think finding the tools to do the repair took longer than the actual repair!

After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!

When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"

Old Hose Had A Leak

  • Customer: Anthonie from Beale AFB CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.

washer was not agitating or spinning

  • Customer: Rachelle from Kent City MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!

oil leaked on clutch and slipping

  • Customer: PETER from MCMURRAY PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
All Instructions for the YBXR1060T4WW
1-15 of 434