X8261RV Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.

Most of the repair time was spent researching the problem online, locating the spark module inside the range, and selecting the part online. Installation was easy. Key troubleshooting info for me was, if there is no clicking, the spark unit is probably worn-out. I traced the ignition wires from the burners down to the spark module, located inside a 2x3" metal housing next to the bottom drawer. I removed 2 screws and out it came. The replacement unit pictured on the PartSelect site was not identical to the original but had the same number of contacts. I ordered the part and it arrived a few days later. The old connectors slipped easily onto the new pins, and I screwed the new unit into the range using the new metal housing. All 4 burners now spark up quickly, and we saved at least $100 on a service call. It was well worth the time and effort -- thanks!

Burner head arrived when I got home from work. Just timely to cook for dinner that monday night, got the 4 burners disconnect the element from the old burner, then connect element to the new bunners, in less than 10 mins, and I had save estimate $600 buying a brand new stove or gas range, this will last me another5 to 10 years. Especially this time of recession

The burner rusted after years of spaghetti pots boiling over. When I went to twist the the burner to remove it the top portion broke off. This left the bottom side of the burner stuck into the cook-top. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the rusted rim for a day or two. I had to drill the phillips head screw and twist it with a vise grip. I used a pair of pliers to grab the center of the broken-off burner part. After a few tries it broke loose and was out. The rest was easy. I recommend sealing the rim between the burner and the cook-top. I used silicone sealant. This should keep the water from leaking underneath the burner and into the cook-top.

Pulled the stove out from the wall. Removed the left side of the stove. Removed the wires from the old igniter. Modified four of the wire ends with the proper size spade connectors (supplied with the new part). Reinstalled the wires onto the new part. Tested the burners. Reinstalled the stove side. Moved the stove back into position.

A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.

The burners turn and lift. I replaced two. One turned very easily, the other was stuck so I used liquid wrench and plumbers pliers. I did get it off. Once off, the old wires slipped right off and onto the new burners. Those twisted on very easily. Good as new easy breezy.

Disconnected the burner cap, unscrewed the drip bowl screws (2), removed the drip bowls, installed the new bowls and reconnected the burner cap. I intended to replace all four drip bowls but two of them came with large chips on the edges. I plan to purchase two replacements soon.

on my cooktop I removed the burner grates then I took the burners out removed the two screws from each burner holder lifted the top to uncover the works inside took all the wire connections from the module removed the module by moving back and forth put new module in and reversed the steps BUT MOST IMPORTANT I PULLED THE PLUG BEFORE I DID ANYTHING

The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.

Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.

The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.