WWSS2601KW0 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

We had the bins the next day. I had called some other companies and they wanted twice your price! You were much more curteous on the phone, much more professional and quicker and cheaper! I will tell everyone in Florida who to call if they need a part!
Thank you so much!
Linda Cecil

Replaced with new parts... they just pop right in. Cheap plastic used by manufacturer gets brittle with exposure to low temperatures and over a mere 5 years all break off. Very annoying.

we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

First I pulled the fridge out and unplugged it. Then I removed the drip tray at the bottom of the water and ice dispenser. This exposed three screws that held the frame of the dispenser mechanism to the freezer door. I removed the three screws and lifted it up a little and I could pull it out and tip it to get at the inside of the dispenser mechanism. I could pull the whole mechanism out a bit, but I was afraid to pull it out too far for fear of unplugging something and tearing or breaking a wire. The water dispenser actuator piece has two round plastic "pins" on either side to allow the actuator to rock back and forth. These "pins" are held in place in a round channel by two metal plates which were in turn held in place by two screws. When I tried to take out these retaining plates, I dropped one of the screws in the dispenser mechanism. I had to fish it out with a magnet. By the way, the plates did not respond to a magnet, so when I dropped one of these, I had to use needle-nosed pliers to fish it out. It took a while, but I finally got the old actuator out and out the new one in and carefully re-attached the retaining plate with their respective screws and re-attached the little spring to the actuator. Before I put it back together, I cleaned off the little door to the ice dispenser. It looked a little crudded up and I just wiped it off with some damp Q-tips. I then put the dispenser mechanism back on to the freezer door, put the screws back, slid the drip tray back, plugged it in and it (surprisingly) works fine. Looking back, I probably should have bought a part for the ice dispenser, too, and replaced that at the same time.

When cleaning the coils on your refrigerator always remember rule number 1, unplug it first. I was cleaning the coils and hit the fan blade while it was moving with a brush, thus breaking off one of the fan blades. I ordered a new fan and installed it in about 15 minutes. Very easy repair.

First I removed the contents from the door. Second, I removed the exposed bolt on the top hinge(per the manual instructions) and then I removed the plastic hinge cover. Up next was to remove the remaining two bolts from the top hinge. I should, at this point, say it is much easier to have someone help steady the door for you so it doesn't fall off the refrigerator. Now remove the door and the old nylon bearing. Replace with the new bearing and replace the door. This repair couldn't have been easier.

Just slid into place provided.

Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.

turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

I simply slid both of the shelves onto the hinges on both doors. Perfect fit. Couldn't be happier with purchase. Site offers diagrams of appliance so it is easy to find needed replacement parts.

Upright refrigerator/freezer. Damage was on refrigerator side door- lower hinge. Removed everything from inside fridge door. Removed plastic protector plate on top of door hinge with phillips screwdriver. Pulled out top hinge and removed door. Undid two small screws holding bottom bearing hinge bracket. Took out chewed up old bearing hinge. Cleaned bracket of debris. Attached bracket with screws. Inserted new bearing hinge. Put door back on fridge, re-attached top hinge and protective cap. (Still trying not to cringe out of habit when opening the door)

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.