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WWS233RBW1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the WWS233RBW1
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replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • rodney from fairfield bay, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
276 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
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The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
Parts Used:
Tub Seal Assembly Tension Idler Pulley TRUNNION FILTER
  • Rick from Walkerton, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
253 of 318 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • alvaro from east hampton, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
86 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
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Pump Motor Failed
First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bolts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.
Parts Used:
Remote Style Pump with Motor
  • Thomas from Walpole, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
68 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lid Lock Assembly broke
The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!
Parts Used:
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
  • Jenessa from Tacoma, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
74 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer wouldn't spin.
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt Tension Spring
  • garland from Morganton, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
55 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Agitator Drive Block wore out
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!
Parts Used:
Agitator Drive Block
  • James from Somerville, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
68 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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bearing and seal at top of transmission went bad causing oil from transmission to stain clothes
I removed front and top of washer to get acess to the tub. removed cap to tub along with inner tub and agitator. the hardest part is removing the springs on the bottom and tilt it forward to get tub out. removed belt, pulley and bolts holding transmission in place. reassemble using silicone grease on seals and washers. works great now
Parts Used:
Transmission Assembly Agitator Drive Block Tub Seal Assembly
  • dave from port sanilac, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
56 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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Worn belt, faulty snubber. Washing machine was 'walking' during spin cycle.
Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.

Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.

Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.

Used bent clothes hangar to remove old snubber ring, to protect my hands.

Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.

Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.

Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt Snubber Ring
  • Steven from Jacksonville, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
43 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
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washing machine will not drain or spin
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!

fast shipping too! will recommend others!
Parts Used:
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
  • Heath Harris from Arnold, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
41 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drain hose was leaking due to small hole in hose
This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer drain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose
  • Carl from Wilmington, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer not spinning, water leaking out bottom
My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.
Parts Used:
Tub Seal Assembly
  • Michael from Springfield, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer wouldn't drain
Vacuum all water possible from the tub. Remove the front panel to provide access to the pump. remove the pump from the washer, but leave the hoses attached lift the pump into the bucket, and remove the clamp from one of the hoses. clip the hose partially off the fitting and drain water from the rest of the tub and hoses. It may be necessary to reattach the hose during this draining process to keep from overflowing the bucket. When the lines are empty, remove the other clamp and remove the hose from the pump. Be sure to disconnect the pump and check the hoses. I have found a sock in the tub drain line twice, which either stopped the line, or blocked the impeller. replacement of the pump is the reverse.
Parts Used:
Remote Style Pump with Motor
  • James from Blacksburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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the belt was all worn out , it make a lot of noise
i took out the two back screws lift the top.
took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • CARLOS from BEALETON, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
26 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer machine wouldn't move
first removed the 2 screws disconected the terminals, installed new switch connected wires back and test washer and it worked like new, i put a Jumper to get the washer to work while i got the parts. Also i received the parts in 24 hrs. Thank You.
Parts Used:
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
  • Luis from Riverside, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the WWS233RBW1
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