WWA8314PML General Electric Washer - Instructions

Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the clamp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

Laid washer face down, unscrewed the 3 screws holding part to brackets. Removed the hose connections to the pump part. loosened the clamp around the base of the pump and pulled the part out. inserted new pump, tightened the clamp, reconnected the hoses, and bolted the part to the brackets. First time through, one of the hoses was not tight enough, so we put a new clamp on it and it worked fine.

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD

First opened top cover using a putty knife to release the spring load catches in front.
Second, removed the old splash guard by carefully prying the retainer wire off the flange of the washing machine top. The retaining wire needs to be reused.
Third, put the retaining wire on the splash guard and worked it on to the washing maching top flange using a screwdrive to pry it over the lip a little bit at a time.
It is important to place the splash guard on the locating pin so that the spout for water recirculation will fit through the hole in the splash guard.

First I moved the washing machine out from wall. I then took a flat head screwdriver to pryed up the top to gain access to the shield cover. I then pulled of the retaineing wire clamp. Cleaned up all surfaces for preperation of new shield. Installed new shield cover and closed top of macine!!

I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet valve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.

My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.

I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.

repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.

Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 shipped in one day.

I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.

This is the second time I have replaced this part. This time, I knew exactly what to do...the first time took longer. We have hard water here and also sediment in the water. Over time, the valve will not shut off the water.

Shutting off the water and unplugging the machine, and opening the back of the washer (every screw was the same size, thankfully. I didn't have to change socket sized) First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and then I unscrewed the hose clamp and I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires one at a time. I reconnected each one as I disconnected it from the old one. That way I knew I had it attached to the correct post. Reconnected the hose and reclamped it. Then I reattached the unit back into the washer and rescrewed everything back in place. The washers, I put in the end of the hoses before reattaching to the faucets. Attached the hoses to the machine and plugged it in the outlet.
It has been working ever since! (of course, I knew it would!) This machine is 25 years old and still going strong!

Could smell burning rubber as it tried to spin, so figured it was the belt. No, I did no do it the hard way by removing the screws etc. I threaded the belt on the pulleys on one side, and slowly turned them, using my fingers to force thread the belt into place. Worked like a charm.

turn off water outlets, unplugged unit then removed water hoses, then removed the screws from the plate on the washer then removed the valve from the plate then unscrewed the clamp for the water inlet to the washer then removed the hose. then carefully removed the wire clips putting each one on the same connector on the new valve, then put everything back like I did when I took it apart and it works great.