WWA8310GBL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.

Since the valve sprayed water out in one particular spot, it was easy to determine what part I needed. After I received the part from "Part Select" it was super easy to replace and took about 10 min. and the washer was good as new.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

Unplugged washing machine from electrical outlet. Turned off water supply to washing machine. Removed inlet hoses. Removed 2 screws to get panel off that water valve attaches to. Removed the panel for access to water valve. Removed fill hose from water valve and then unbolted valve from panel. Made diagram of electrical wiring to ensure correct placement on new valve. Attached new water valve, electrical wires and fill hose to valve. Installed panel in machine and hooked up inlet hoses. Turned on water supply and inspected for leaks. Turned on washing machine to verify filling and repair was OK.

Replaced the water inlet valve. Your shipping was next day the best I have ever received. Thank You

Very straight forward install. First removed the agitator itself by pulling straight up on it. Then removed the agitator coupling without the need of any tools just pull it straight off. Install new coupler and agitator.

An older gentleman neighbor needed help finding a part for his machine. We checked local parts stores to no avail. I researched the internet, found your site and ordered the part. My adult son put the part on in less than 15 minutes. Our neighbor was very happy. We will tell any one in our neighborhood to order parts here. We followed the part watching UPS. The part arrived at the exact day and time. It couldn't be easier.

Once I figured out what was wrong (splined, hard rubber part of the agitator coupler had parted from the inner, metal part)the job was easy. But I couldn't really tell what was going on until I saw the new coupler ($31.25)which I didn't even have to use. What I did was rough the outside of the metal core with a coarse file, score the inside of the outer, hard rubber part with a screw driver, clean both surfaces thuroughly and reassemble with JB weld. Let sit for 24 hours, and voila. If I had to do it again I could do it in half an hour (not counting glue set-up time).

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

quck delivery thanks. removed back panel and valve assembly. replace unit,and replaced panel. yep it works

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

Unscrew the back cover to washer, Find 3 hole plug, plug in the cord, take the ground wire and screw it to the screw next to the cord that is screwed into the metal frame, put the back panel on and that's it! easy peasy! Remember to hook up your water hoses and turn on the water to check for leaks BEFORE plugging it in! Very Easy!

In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.