WWA8310GBL General Electric Washer - Instructions

simply replaced the old knob with the new one.

Trouble shooting on internet only mentioned worn drive belt as a cause for no spin. No mention of the possibility of a transmission problem burning out the centrifugal clutch. So the drive belt was ordered and when I checked tracking when it was late, I was informed that it was already delivered and signed for by some stranger, jmorris. Later that night I found the package at my door to late to do the repair that night. The next evening the repair was attempted and it was not difficult with the youtube video for guidance. Back together but it did not spin or agitate. On the third run dthrough the procedure I noticed that the clutch was really hot and the notor was not locked. But the big pully would not complete but bart of a revolution and hard stop. The repair was a failure and after the time spent diagnosing the wrong problem with inadiquate trouble shooting on the internet chart and the time ordering and waiting for the second chance delivery. The failed repair delayed to the point that the customer did not have time to do their laundry berore their weekend trip. They will have to get a new machine after waisting so mych time with a less than fully informed repair attempt. The internet trouble shooting help was inadequate. The delivery of the parts was botched using FedEx instead of UPS. At the last minute after hours of involvement it came to light that the machine was history and we were suckered into buying the wrong part and running out of time for the customer to ready their clothes for their trip. I felt so bad of the machine resisting the repair process thaqt I discounted my labor time and told the customer pay me what they felt would be ritght. It was not all part selectt's fault but they had their page in the story.

This was a very easy repair. First I unpluged the 120VAC power cord. Then I turned the water off. Next I opened the hose connections. Then I removed 3 screws from the back which exposed the Inlet Valve. I removed the old valve taking note of where the wires went. Then I installed the new one. It took less than 10 minutes!

removed old knob pushed on new nrw one locked on wifh key

Removed back cover. Opened top lid - slid putty knife under front lip to release latch (2). Removed old valve hose and clamps. Replaced with new valve hose and new clamps. No more leaking during fill.

Did some checking to make sure the filter, screen and hose were unobstructed. Turned off water at faucets, disconnected hoses and drainage hose. Unplugged machine and pulled out far enough to access back. Used nutdriver to remove 6-7 screws that held the back on, and then inlet valve plate. Removed clamp on outlet hose, then one by one removed wires, making sure to connect them to the same connections on new valve. Re-connected outlet hose and reversed procedure. Easy fix. Went ahead and replaced hoses while I had it out.

Pulled top off and removed corner mounting plate then unscrewed mixing valve.replace wiring to valve and mount new valve in it's place .put back support and corn brace .then attached hoses and put back in service .work great for 20 plus yr machine.thanks tom

removed 3 screws from the back. Then removed the little water line clamp. unplugged the 4 wires. took the new part. plugged it in. put on the water line clamp. put the 3 screws back on. put the hoses on the back again. turned on the water supply. and started washer.

I took the back cover off of the washer, studied my next move and jumped in.Easy Lou-eezee!

There was a hose clamp that needed to come off and put back on the new hose, and POOF....back in business again!

Took off the backing and then the water inlet piece and just reverse the procedure when installing the new part. What really amazed me was the ease of ordering the part through this website. I found it, ordered it and in two days it was here!! Great website, you folks really know what your doing. My repair was under 25 dollars, how much would have I paid for a service tech to come out, don't even want to think about it !! I'm telling everyone I know about your website. THANKS AGAIN !!!!!

turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all

Turn off cold & hot water inlets. Detached water and drain hoses from Washer. Unplugged electricity.Removed back panel using nut driver/wrench would also work. Detached plate holding old valve and then old valve from plate. Held old valve in one hand, detached each electrical connection from old valve and attched to same location on new valve. Reinstalled and reconnected everything. Work like a charm. $20 bucks instead of a new washer. Point of fact: the valve contains the selinoids that regulate water flow. I did not know this and was trying to find "Selinoid" instead of inlet valve.

1. Lifted Agitator out. 2. Heated Sleeve until loose. 3. Pushed old Rubber out of Agitator. 4. Cleaned Splines on Agitatorshaft and inside of Agitator. 5. Used Lithium Grease to lubricate inside of Agitator. 6. Used Hudraulic Ram to press New Coupling in place. 7. Placed Agitator on Agitarorshaft. 8. Closed Machine and ran a cycle to make certain particles from repair were cleaned away.

Removed existing knob by using pliers to release clip from shaft. Inserted new knob (with clip attached) onto shaft and aligned with shaft groove to engage clip. Easy breezy.