This part is the replacement timer knob for your washer. It is made of white plastic and is about 1 ¼ inches in diameter. The timer knob sits on the timer shaft and allows you to choose the wash cycle...
This is a water hose clamp kit for a variety of appliances including dishwashers and washers. This is a genuine replacement part. The kit includes two hose clamps. The smaller of the two is 1 inch in ...
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First, you will need to remove the agitator, if it hasn't fallen off by itself. Than, you will need a pulley to remove the coupling from the spinning pole . I used one of those pulleys with three arms to remove it , Second, I lubricated the inside of the new coupling with a little oil, and sided it down on the spinning pole. It was
... Read more a little hard to installed but, I used a hammer and tapped it in. Third, I also put some lubricant on the new coupling to help the agitator slide down a little easier on the new coupling.
P.S. Check inside agitator for old rubber of the old coupling and remove it. (only if it has fallen off the old coupling.)
## WHAT I WISH I'D KNOWN BEFORE I STARTED ## 1. Remove the four hoses first. 2. remove the three screws holding the pump to the structure above BEFORE loosening the flex clamp. 3. with the pump free of the hoses and rest of the washer, then remove the flex coupling clamp from the pump end only; do not remove the flex coupli
... Read moreng from the motor. 4. remove the old pump. 5. attach the new pump to the top of the flex coupling BEFORE attaching the pump to the upper part of the washer. This is the most difficult step, to get the flex coupling on the pump in a secure fashion using the clamp. It's much easier to do if the pump is not yet connected to the rest of the washer. 6. attach the pump to the washer with the three mounting screws. 7. re-attach the hoses. 8. run the washer and check for leaks.
I made the mistake of taking the flex coupling off the motor then tried to put the flex coupling on the motor and the pump when the pump was already attached to the washer. Major grief :>(
In my case the rubber bonded to the agitator coupling had stuck inside the agitator cover (plastic part that comes in contact with clothes). The metal part with the splines could not be removed by gripping with pliers. A pulling tool needed to be used to remove the tool. I used a valve spring compressor tool for overhead cam engines, b
... Read moreut any pulling type tool with a center bolt and jaws that will fit between the rubber seal and the bottom of the agitator coupling would work. After removing metal part of coupling from agitator shaft and cleaning up the rusted teeth on the agitator shaft that caused the difficult removal, I pried out the rubber part of the agitator coupling from the plastic agitator cover by inserting a screw driver from the top hole in the agitator cover and getting it under the rubber to separate the toothed parts of the rubber from the matching grooves and then pushed it out the bottom of the agitator coupling. Then came the difficult part of the project - inserting the new coupling. I found the instructions that came with the new part very unrealistic and was not able to simply wet the rubber on the new coupling after installing it on top of agitator shaft and then push it into the plastic agitator cover - it simply would not go down more than 1/8" in the cover. If you attempt to do this job using the method described in the instructions you will likely end up with a damaged agitator, or cover as you will likely resort to hammering the cover on which is not recommended because of shock to agitator teeth. In my solution this is where a long bolt, 2 large diameter washers that the bolt fit through, several nuts larger than the bolt diameter and finally a nut that fit the long bolt came into play. Using these parts and a socket set with several long socket extensions I used the bolt, washers and nuts to draw the agitator coupling into position in the plastic coupling. This worked extremely easily once all the parts were in the right place and put no stress on any of the parts being assembled. To do this, first I installed the new agitator coupling on the agitator shaft - making sure it would remove fairly easily before continuing, then I pushed the agitator cover over the agitator coupling as far as I could to get it connected well enough to the agitator coupling so that when I pulled the agitator cover back off the agitator shaft the coupling would come with it (still in place with the rubber teeth from the coupling started in the corresponding grooves on the inside of the cover). With the agitator cover removed I placed a washer that was wider than the top of the agitator cover onto the long bolt (the bolt must be about 8 inches long) and then passed the bolt through the hole in the top of the agitator cover, through the splined hole in the agitator coupling (the bolt must be small enough in diameter to fit through the agitator couping hole). With the bolt and washer pushed all the way down on top of the agitator cover I turned the cover over and placed it upside down on the floor so that the cover pushed down on the washer and bolt and held them in place. I then used an extracting tool (something with little claws that protrude or retract) to lower first another washer large enough in diameter to cover the diameter of the agitator coupling bottom and then several nuts larger than the bolt diameter onto the exposed end of the bolt that comes out on the other side of the agitator coupling inside the long narrow tube of the agitator cover. Once I had enough nuts in place to leave only enough threads on the bolt for the washer and nut that fit that bolt, I set the nut on the end of the bolt and used the correct sized socket with several long socket extensions attached to it to hand tighten the nut onto the end of the bolt. Then securing the head of the bolt with a wrench to keep the bolt from turning, I placed a socket wrench on the extensions and socket that covered the nut and then tightened th
