Models > WW30430B > Instructions

WW30430B Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for WW30430B parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WW30430B
16-30 of 159
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Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4

  • Customer: Edward from Juliustown NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Oven display was out

  • Customer: Dennis from Grapevine TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
This repair is sooo easy! First I down loaded the service manual (free pdf) from Maytag as they make this appliance. They give all of the voltages for the J1 and J2 plugs. I checked those to be sure I was getting power to the board. I did not want to lay out close to $200 and then discover that the problem was elsewhere. All voltages on the J1 and J2 plugs were good. Next I ordered the clock and when it came in it may have taken me 5 minutes to replace the old board with the new one. Including time to go out to the garage and turn the power off and on. Also beware that the ribbon cable attaches to the clock with a compression type connector. The connector does not separate with the ribbon. Simply press on the two tabs on either side and then pull the ribbon from the connector. Reverse to reassemble.

After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.

  • Customer: Christine from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

1998 oven unit flashing F3

  • Customer: chris from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Oven kept shutting off, getting F-3, F-5 messages on LED readout

  • Customer: ken from north andover MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I was out pricing new stoves. Why are slide in stoves twice the price of regular stoves?? I tried one last go at ordering part, overnight mail. Needed to get it fixed for the holiday meal. Part came within one day, early, and it worked. Stove fixed easily, spent the money on a big screen TV.

oven display became gradually almost totally dim in a couple of weeks

  • Customer: Guy from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the breaker supplying power to the oven to OFF.
Removed four screws at the bottom of the control panel assembly above the top oven door (open the top oven door to access these screws). Lifted this control panel upwards to unhook it from a metal bracket. In my case, cabinet doors just above the control panel made this operation difficult.
Tilted the panel down. At this point, cables prevent complete removal of the control panel: The electronic clock assembly is attached with four screws inside this panel and connects to electrical equipment above the oven with two cables.
Unplugged these two cables. Their connectors must be unlatched by prying with a screw driver in the right place.
Once these cables were disconnected, the control panel could be removed from the oven area.
Disconnected the ribbon cable connecting the switches on the control panel to the clock assembly. That was the tricky part. Contrary to what I thought, this ribbon cable was not terminated by a connector but just snapped in the connector mounted on the clock assembly. After some fumbling, found that I had to depress both edges of the connector which allowed lifting up one part. Then the ribbon cable could be bent slightly to disengage two holes in the ribbon from nubs in the connector assembly and pull out the ribbon.
Removed old clock assembly by removing the four screws.
Installed the new assembly with the four screws.
Connected the two cables to the new clock assembly.
Reinstalled the control panel with the new clock assembly reconnecting the two cable connectors and by sliding the control panel down over the metal plate attached to the top of the oven.
Fastened the panel with the four screws.
Turned the circuit breaker back on.

temperature probe insulation broken down so short circuit

  • Customer: Nicholas W J from Worthington OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
As the probe is a plug-in item that would normally be out of the oven, there was nothing more to the repair than checking that the new probe plug fitted the socket and that it was detected by the oven. Then the old probe was consigned to the trash.

Everything checked out, and the probe was used satisfactorily within a couple of days.

F1 code and oven wouldn't operate

  • Customer: Robbie from Hillsboro TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Oven Door hinge is broken

  • Customer: Hugh from Hopewell NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting

  • Customer: Joseph from Wappingers Falls NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

Display was unreadable and doors didn't close

  • Customer: Page from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
NOTE: I had a repair person try to fix the door problem and he only replaced the HINGES. You need to replace both the HINGES and the HINGE RECEPTACLES to fix the door problem.

INSTALLING the clock assembly:

First I went to the electrical breaker box and turned off the power to my double oven. Then I removed the screws that hold the oven to the wall and pulled the oven out about 5 inches. I removed the cover for the controls at the top of the oven - the clock assembly is attached to the cover - several connectors need to be unplugged to remove the cover. I put the cover on my counter and unscrewed the four screws (with nutdriver) that hold the clock in place. I unclipped the control cable (flat with embedded wires) and took out the old clock. I reversed these steps to put in the new clock. I then held the cover up to the oven and reconnected the connectors to the rest of the oven, I hooked the cover back in place.

Replacing the hinge receptacles:
I opened the oven doors and removed the hinge covers (just over the hinge itself that keep the door from falling off) and lifted the doors off of the oven. Next went to the side of the oven and removed all the lag screws that attach the hinge receptacles to the oven body (you may need to remove the trim around the oven in the process as they may be too hard to get out otherwise). I put each of the four new hinge receptacles back in place and screwed in all the screws I took out before. I put the oven doors back on and replaced the hinge covers.

The oven works perfectly!! Hurray!

Broiler would not heat

  • Customer: Sandra from Oklahoma City OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
replaced broiler element - still would not heat.
Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.
In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

The display did not work - coud not tell oven temp - timer etc.

  • Customer: Manuel from Narrowsburg NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 3 screws from the top and 4 screws from the bottom of the touch pad. Pulled the touch pad away from the oven then disconnected the wiring harness and the strip from the old clock assembly.
Removed the 4 screws holding the assembly to the touch pad and pulled it away from the touch pad.
to assemble I just reversed the order.
Easy project.
All Instructions for the WW30430B
16-30 of 159