WU5750B1 Roper Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the video, read all the post, they all said change the heater. So I did. Only there is a little fuse at the back of the unit that also goes bad and that was my issue. Have it ordered and will be going soon. That said, Part Select made finding and getting my parts a breeze!

Just followed the online instructions. I used white vinegar to clean any residue first. So easy.

Remove the Access Panel retainer from top of the panel. Then remove the Access Panel and the Spacer Panel from the front. Then remove the Extension from the bottom. This step was kind of difficult, I ended up bending the plastic bracket on the pane since I was going to throw it away anyway. Install all the parts onto the new panel in the reverse order. Screw the panel back on to the dishwasher.

removed the 2 water deflector and slipped the new ones in , in place.. very easy to do but it didn't seem to stop the leak so ordered the door gasket

1. Turn off the electrical switch that powers the dishwasher. 2. Open the door of the dishwasher and find the two phillips head screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the kitchen counter. 3. Remove the screws. 4. Gently move the machine side-by-side a bit while pulling it out onto the kitchen tile (be careful, the water-supply hose, electric cord, and dishwasher drain hose may not be long enough to allow you to pull it out very far - don't break or kink the hoses). 5. Remove (pull off) the black plastic fastener located on the bottom/rear of each side of the dishwasher. 6. Remove the old surround. 7. Lay the new wrap in place and secure with the two plastic fasteners. 8. Push back into place, secure the two screws, check your hoses.

I ordered door cover kit #4387043. It comes with new door cover (lid), new pin, spring, latch and snap. Two problems I encountered was 1)with the spring - there is a trick to replacing it. I had to look up how to put the spring on properly. Go to YouTube and Partselect "Dishwasher Repair - Replacing the Lid Spring (Whirlpool Part # 8066018) " will show you the trick. Was a cinch after I knew the trick. 2) you must take door apart to replace snap that goes with the latch, so you might want to replace the detergent door first and see if that solves your problem without changing the latch. It is workable, but I had to go on line and look for diagram to put back together. Just frustrating but for less than $20.00 solved the problem. Good luck.

Remove lower rack in dishwasher, remove dishwasher, lay dishwasher on it's back, remove and replace motor and pump.Install new impellar with new seal. reconnect water, electrical and drain hose. Easy Peasy

Removed cover and broken spring ,installed new spring and cover.Did it all in less than 10 minutes

Very quick and easy. Thank You. Women did it not a man. Very Happy dishwasher looks like new and soap is dispensing properly again. Thanks for the parts and the video on installing the soap dispenser cover. My man was impressed I did not need his assistance. Just follow the video I do not have any better suggestions.

Safety First: 1) I shut power off to dishwasher, 2) Shut water off to dishwasher, 3) Checked electrical with tic tracer to confirm power was off after removing bottom dishwasher panel, 4) I checked the orientation of old valve: connection plate, water inlet tubing, hose connection, and electrical connection. Then I removed the 2-screws that held the valve in place with a nut driver. Next I removed the compression clamp from the rubber hose with pliers and a screw driver. Then I removed the compression fitting and copper tubing from the old valve. Note: Kenmore used a compression fitting to connect the copper tubing to the original water valve. That said, I had to remove the old fitting and install a new one (using a pipe cutter on the copper tubing before installing a new compression fitting). I also bought a new valve elbow because the old one was not serviceable. With all three connections made up (the rubber tubing connected to the new valve along with the electrical connection, and the new elbow and compression fitting installed) I tested for leaks and reconnected the holding bracket to the side of the dishwasher frame. Before calling it good I vacuumed out the area under the dishwasher. Note: because the water inlet valve is located close to the floor, all the work had to be done while laying on the floor...awkward. This too, I had to purchase a new valve elbow and compression fitting so halfway through the project I had to make a run to the hardware store. Overall, replacing the water inlet valve on a 10 year old Kenmore dishwasher is an easy project...pretty straight forward but having to go to the hardware store stretched the installation time out to over an hour.

i took the inside door off and took the 2 switches out and replaced them; not too difficult.

I installed the opener spring in the direction it was needed to open the door then installed the pin. I placed the door in the position it goes and took a pair of pliers and squeezed the pin into the pin slot. the spring has to be forced into a tension position. I did this by sliding the spring to one side and forcing it into position, the other side is done the same way. works great

I read everyone else's fixes, which were very helpful but my solution of removing the plastic from the motor shaft was a lot easier than others. I simply used side cutters and made two cuts into that plastic piece and it Fell of. much easier than the person using several Dremmel blades to cut it off.. That was the most difficult phase until I grabbed my ole phone company side cuts and just cut it off in 15 seconds. Thanks for all the other tips. I love dealing with Parts Select, Fast and efficient. Jim W

we followed your instructions submitted via e-mail and they worked out just fine....thank you

The broken access panel was VERY TIGHTLY engaged to the metal vent. After much tugging and pulling, trying to get the vent free of the broken access panel the two apart (without success) I used a large flathead screwdriver to split the portion of the access panel (its plastic) that held to the metal vent. Once the vent was free of the old panel, it could be easily snapped together to the new panel and this new assembly was held in place with two screws.