This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
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The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installat...
$11.10
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This lid lock assembly is supplied by the original manufacturer for use in various models of top-load washing machines. The assembly includes the lid lock mechanism and the wiring harness. You can fin...
$143.75
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This is a water inlet valve made for washing machines. This part is used to control the flow of water into the fill hose of the washing machine, to allow the washer to fill up with water. If your wash...
$92.13
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Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$22.68
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This lid hinge is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washing machine. This hinge is for the left side of your lid, although it is a good idea to replace btoh hinges at once. The hinge holds up th...
$25.32
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Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for WTW8040DW0
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Nancy
July 27, 2021
My washer never drained after the wash cycle. I manually emptied the water, unplugged the unit to reset then ran a diagnostic. It gave me f5 & e2. Looking up the codes, gives me the info that the lid lock assembly is bad. How dependable is this info and if it's the most likely scenario, how hard is it to replace and how expensive?
For model number WTW8040DW0
Hello Nancy, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched this for you and confirmed that the F5 E2 error code indicates an issue with the lid lock assembly. You can test this part with a multimeter to verify if it is the issue. We have included a link to our video for a similar lid lock assembly to assist you with your repair. Hope this helps.
Will the washplate stop the grinding noises I am experiencing on my washer. The wash plate loose
For model number WTW8040DW0
Hi Dock, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend tightening the wash plate screw. If this does not help, then you may need to replace the washer wash plate, part number PS11699797. The wash plate turns back and forth at the bottom of the spin basket to circulate the wash load through the water. If it is faulty, your washer will be noisy. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Hi David, thank you for your question. This error code could mean a couple of things. First, it could mean that the user interface is not communicating correctly with the main control board. To correct the issue, try unplugging the washer for a few minutes and plug it back in to see if this resets it.
If this does not correct the issue, it could be a wiring issue between the 2 parts or either the main control board or the user interface has malfunctioned. If so, they will need to be replaced. Second, this problem could also be caused when the main control board senses a change in pressure. If the pressure hose between the tub and pressure sensor has a blockage, is kinked or is leaking air, then it will need to be either cleaned or replaced. If the hose is fine, you will need to replace the main control board. We hope this helps!
My washer isn't agitating but it will spin. No error codes. Makes a grinding noise when the tub should be agitating.
For model number WTW8040DW0
Hello Mike, thank you for the great question. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend replacing the wash plate, part number PS11699797, to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
My Cabrio washer makes a very loud jet engine loud while spinning and agitating. I have read the tub bearing needs to be replaced. Are there videos for this? Does it sound like an accurate diagnosis? Is only the bearing needed or do I need additional parts?
For model number WTW8040DW0
Hello Sonya, thank you for getting in touch. We have researched and found that you may need to check the gearcase, part number PS12741641, to fix the issue. The gearcase drives the agitator and spins the basket in the washer. Regrettably we do not have any video on how to replace the gearcase, however you can replace the gearcase by following these instructions:
1. Disconnect the hoses that are attached to the washer.
2. Remove the screws holding in the harness cover and the top panel at the back.
3. Secure the door with the duct tape to prevent your door from opening up and lift up the top panel.
4. Pull out all the tabs securing the tub and lift up the tub ring.
5. Pry out the impeller cap, unscrew the bolt and take out the wash plate.
6. Remove the spanner nut and lift out the tub.
7. Reconnect the top panel screws.
8. Turn over the washer and take out the rotor by removing the nut.
9. Remove the screws holding onto the clutch.
10. Disconnect the wires by removing the securing screws.
11. Dismount the transmission by removing all the bolts and pull out the transmission.
12. Install the new transmission by reversing the same procedure.
We hope this helps!
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This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate
... Read more( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
This is a very simple repair. My lid was severely cracked on the back left corner where there seems to be a lot of pressure/torque required to shut the lid. There is a metal L-shaped "tab" that inserts into the lid on both sides of the back edge of the lid. The lid is attached to these metal tabs with two screws for each side. My crack
... Read moreed lid had resulted in the lid breaking off of the metal tab with the screws still anchored into the metal tab.
Make sure screws have been removed from the metal tabs on both sides. Do not remove metal tabs- leave them attached to the washing maching (otherwise, you will not be able to attach the lid back onto the machine). Slide the lid over the tabs. There are square-shaped spaces along the edge of the lid where the tabs slide into the lid. Re-screw the screws into the lid, attaching the lid to the tabs through pre-drilled holes on the sides of the lid. It may take a little time to make sure the screws are properly inserted into the lid and tab screw holes. Tighten up and you're finished.
