Models > WTR430ES0 > Instructions

WTR430ES0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WTR430ES0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WTR430ES0
16-30 of 259
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Rear tube brackets broke, made a banging sound in final spin

  • Customer: Mike from Clear Lake MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
My repair went well except I removed the rubber seal between the tube shell and front door, BIG MISTAKE! Next time I will leave the front half of the tube shell in tack in the washer and just remove the rear half of the shell. If it wasn't for having to reinstall the rubber seal between the tube shell and the front door, the whole project could have been down in under two hours.

Food for thought next time! :-)

Bearing/whining noise loudest during spin cycle

  • Customer: Mihaela from DAVENPORT IA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson

Noisey sound getting louder during spin cycle

  • Customer: Lester from Olympia WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Please note that I went online first to get an idea of what was involved.
I removed the back panel using a cordless drill w/attachment for the screws. Then the top. The directions that I received online was very helpful, but I didn't remove the whole tub assembly. I don't recommend doing it my way, but it can be done without removing the front or the whole tub assembly. After the motor and the big pulley was removed, I removed the bottom "shocks". I then took out every one of the cap screws that hold the 2 halves together. When that was done the two halves were loose. I then supported the bottom and took out the two springs. The back half came out quite easily then. It is then necessary to use a mallet to remove the inner drum from the bearing and back half of the tub. I cleaned and inspected the "spider" which was fine except it had old soap in it. Then using a dremel tool with a plastic brush I cleaned/polished the shaft of the inner tub. The new rear shell fit perfectly. Supporting the bottom of the front half of the tub, I then placed the back half assembly (with the pulley replaced on the shaft) in proximity and started the cap screws. It is weird how the 2 halves don't want to stay in correct alignment, but it can be done. After I got most of the top screws in, I used a ratchet wrench to tighten them to almost where the 2 halves were touching. That helped with the alignment process. When all (Ibelieve there are around 17 screws) were started and the 2 halves were aligned, I then started at the top and tightened to a loose fit. The second time around I tightened to semi tight. At this time I could put the springs back on (greatly improves ability to reach the bottom screws). The third time around I put them all tight. Every thing went back on without a problem. I attached water and power to the unit and ran a cycle with the top off and checked for leaks. That's it.

Dryer wouldn't go into high spin

  • Customer: Kristofer from Crescent City CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
this repair was easy, but it was repair #3.
#1: Fix-it guy said the front control board needed replaced. Ordered part from box store. Shoulda come here!
#2: Replaced motor control board. Harder to replace. Shoulda let the new front board run error code first. Again, used brand name supplier. Oops!
#3: Still not spinning. Error code "Door is open" but it's closed.
Remove door lock/switch assy, wires to the front board, and striker. 4 screws, 15 minutes. reached in through the top (did NOT unseat rubber around door).
Plugged wires into door lock. Inserted striker. Using multimeter on "Ohms" tested switch. No continuity=switch not closed.
New switch cost less, arrived faster. thank you Parts Select!

washer making noise in the spin cycle:coin in pump

  • Customer: Joseph from Somers CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
disconnected the power cord,removed two screws on lower front edge of machine, removed lower front cover. Got the wet vac ready to suck up the water in the rubber boots when I took the clamps off. Disconnect the pump wires, and two bolts that mounted the pump. wrestled off the boots, and cleaned out the junk in the bottom of the main boot, sucking up water as the boots came off. then reversed the process. Not bad at all. Makes you want to double check for coins so they don't destroy the pump impeller.

door wont lock when turn on, it dont work

  • Customer: Jun from Alameda CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

Drains but will not final spin

  • Customer: Chris from Naples FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Great advice on your site.
Repairman "found bad motor control board" and gave me an estimate of $316.00 to repair. I figured that the $80 gamble was worth a shot. Took the top screws off, slid the top back and in less than 15 min. I had a fully functioning washer. Thank you.

Spider was corroded and broke from being weakened by the corrosion

  • Customer: Timothy from Biglerville PA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the entire front cover of the washing machine and dicoonected the springs that support the tub. Left the tub down and disconnected the struts and unhooked all the wiring and pulled complete tub out of machine. Removed all the bolts around the tub shell and split the tub shell. Remover the motor from the sheel to make it lighter to work on, removed the pulley on the drum shaft and pulled the drum out of the shell. Found that the cast alluminum spider was weakened by corrosion and this caused the spider to break. The spider itself should be able to be purchased seperately because the stainless steel drum was okay and could have been reused. The biggets problem I had was getting the tub back in the washing machine and getting it suspended by the springs again. I used a 6 x6 block and a 2 x 6 board to lift the tub up in the air to get the tub springs hooked back up. This took 2 people to accomplished. After the tub was suspended on the springs the rest was easy.

Machine was producing loud banging during spin cylce.

  • Customer: Daniel from Temecula CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

Every time the washer went to spin it walked accross the room

  • Customer: Gerard from Wilson WY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

washer wouldn't drain

  • Customer: Anita from Mission Hills KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the breaker to the washer.

Then I removed the drain pump motor, saw that it was broken, and ordered a new one with expedited shipping. It was delivered about 36 hours later.

I should have used my wet/dry vac to suck out all of the water remaining in the drain lines. Because I didn't, nasty water dripped all over my laundry room. Lesson learned!

The part arrived at 2:20. I had to pick up my kids at school at 3pm. I wasn't sure I'd have time, but I tried anyway. I first removed the screws holding the entire pump assembly to the floor of the washer. Then I attempted to remove the clamps holding the three hoses onto the pump / motor assembly. I tried with regular pliers for about 10 minutes and finally realized I needed locking pliers. Mine are missing, but I have a stone mason doing a project at my house. I borrowed his and immediately had the clamps loosened. I slid them back onto the hoses, inserted the pump motor into each hose one by one, and reattached the clamps.

I ran a little water into the washer, checked to see that it didn't leak upon draining, then started a load and left to get my kids from school.

This was a very easy repair. The part was $75 plus about $20 for the expedited delivery. The Sears service call would have been $65 just to walk in the door PLUS whatever they would have charged me for the labor and the part. I am guessing I saved over $200.

The worst part was the gross water remaining in the drain lines. This would have been easily avoided if I'd just taken the time to get the shop vac. Learn from me and don't skip this step!!

Set aside time (6-8 hours), not rocket science, but long

  • Customer: David from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Clear a work space, set up bins for parts, there are a lot of them, so upon removal, put all parts in same place (motor bolts in same box as motor, etc), use a digital camera to capture where everything goes.
Remove back, remove front lower access panel. Remove all plumbing from tug. Remove belt and large pulley from back (tap gently with mallet around perimeter to remove). Unhook motor wire connector, cut the zip tie. Remove the motor (4 bolts). Separate the front seal, remove the shock absorbers (use a deep socket to push in plastic tabs). Now the fun part, carefully tilt the washer back to the floor (2 people, it is heavy), while supporting the tub, to keep it from over swaying (I cut a 2x4 to size, put it between the tub and the lips of the side walls to keep it in place).
You should now be able to remove the springs (leverage them out with old screw driver), clear all parts from the tub. You can then lift the washer housing from the tub vertically. You should then be able to access the tub clearly. Remove the counter weights, set aside carefully, they are fragile. Remove the bolts holding the tub together.
Tap out the tub.
Reverse the process to put back together. Careful not to over tighten the bolts on counter weights or motor.

H2O leaking on final spin

  • Customer: judd from jax FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
drum vane had a hole in it replaced it using phillips screwdriver removed one screw ,pulled drum vane towards the door then pulled up replaced it reversing the procedure. It actually seemed to fix my leak during spin cycle

The washer wouldn't spin at all.

  • Customer: Leah from Ramsey MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

Washer would not spin

  • Customer: Terri from Glennville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Ran diagnostic and discovered that the panel did not recognize that the door was locked, thus no spin. I ordered both parts, although I didn't need the door strike/catch. I only needed the locking mechanism. I removed metal ring from around the rubber piece inside the door with needle nose pliers, and then I simply plugged in the new lock and screwed it in place. I put the ring back around the rubber piece, flipped the circuit back on and washed a load of clothes. Easy as pie! Teachers can do anything. Who needs a repair man? :)
All Instructions for the WTR430ES0
16-30 of 259