WTR1240AQ0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Super simple, unscrewed the existing screws, removed broken piece, attached piece, screw it in. Done deal!

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

I am a 63 year old woman. This was the third time the pump would not drain due to a jammed up water pump. I had paid around $200 TWICE for a service man to fix this. He said it was a common problem with this model of washing machine. I thought next time it happened, I was going to buy a new machine. So when the third time came around, I thought I would take a look before junking the whole machine, it seems like such a waste. The pump was not jammed up, so I needed a new pump. I have gone this far, so I thought I would try to replace the pump. THANKS to your video instructions, it looked like something I could do. Had problems getting the back hose back on. AGAIN THANKS to your video instructions I watched Steve put on the back hose about six times until I got his technique down pat. Do not know if I could have done it without studying Steve's technique. Thank you so much. I feel so powerful and good about myself. Did not junk a washing machine for one part. Go green!

Ordered a replacement door strike which was easily replaced with Phillips screwdriver. I was very grateful that the part was so easy to find on this website. It was helpful that I had saved my book with model number of washer which allowed me to find the exact part needed. Thanks!!!!

Slowly took apart things to be able to get tub out and checked wear of parts. Our spider was in good shape, sounds like depending on your water the spider can in bad shape. Can't buy spider alone have to get $250+ assembly if that is bad. All other parts looked OK so ordered and replaced gasket and cleaned up other items as re-assembled. Takes time, but is do-able. Best with 2 people. Used youtube video to step through disassembly. After putting it back together no leak.

I simply read what another person wrote, which was ; Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock.(I didnt have to do this part. I got this from front, bottom panel) Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new. ( it was just this easy)

First we took the pump off and it was full so we hoped replacing it as the fan blades were broke and it didn't help. We replaced the control board and that didn't change it either. So I checked here and the door strike and door switch could be the problem so I ordered and put them on that was the problem. Thanks so much. Instructions were well printed and the job was about 5 minutes to replace. The washer works perfectly. We should have started with these parts first and it may not have cost so much.

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Unplug. Remove front lower cover panel. The trick is getting the old pins out and the solution was the alternate method provided in the written instructions that came with the shock kit. Use a deep 13mm or 1/2" socket over the pin end to depress the locking tab. After that, it is just a matter of prying the pins out. I was able to salvage all of my existing pins and the new (different design which will hopefully hold up much better) shocks went in pretty easily. The shock kit was reasonably priced but replacement pin were incredibly overpriced, so I was motivated to salvage the ones installed.

This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.

I used a screwdriver to screw on the new door strike. Problem solved!

Removed two screws, installed new piece.

Took the back off the machine. pulled out the old shocks and installed the new. Put the back on. Simple

Followed The instructions provided by "Part Select". Having a stacked washer & Dryer I removed the dryer and the electrical and water connections and the back panel on the washer. After that disassembley was relatively easy. Unfortunately, I got over-zelaous and removed more than I had too. Once apart I found that the Spider Arm on the Inner tub was broken. Bought the parts and reassembled in reverse order using the photos I took upon disassembley. (Trusting memory is not always the best way to go) The thing that irritated me was not being able to purchase the Spider Arm separate from the Inner Tub. Apparently Kenmore wasn't satisfied with their profit margin so they found a way to jack the price up. Regardless, I saved a lot of money and the Washer is running like a top. Parts delivery was as advertised.