WT4870CW LG Washer - Instructions

I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.

I first thought there was a mechanical problem but after checking everything mechanical I discounted that idea ... I researched and found out from others with a similar problem that the Le code display was probably a sensor problem ... I ordered a replacement sensor ... With the new sensor available, I removed the access panel to the back of the machine (phillips head screw driver - 4 screws) ... Remove the exposed motor half (1 bolt - 17mm scocket) ... Loosen the motor stator that has the wired coils (10mm socket - 6 bolts) ... Hold motor unit to the side without disconnecting the wiring harness ... Disconnect the sensor wire connector and remove the old sensor ... Clip the new sensor in place (same position as the old one) and re-connect ... Reverse the assembly procedures ... This fixed the problem and the washing machine works like a new one ... The wife is HAPPY!

1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.

Did the repair Myself. Saved $ 400.00 in the process.

Removed the back of the washing machine looked to see where the water was leaking from removed the hose to find a smell crack - ordered a new hose dried up everything with old towels took compressed air and blew off all electrical wires and connectors total time 15 minutes

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

Disconnected power supply and water supply hoses. Laid machine on its back because this is a top load machine. Removed one bolt to take off stator then 6 bolts to remove rotor. Put it on side without taking off wire assembly. Snapped off rotor position sensor and installed new one. Put all back together and connected power supply and new stainless braided hoses. WORKS PERFECT. Thanks !

I diagnosed by running a full wash. I watched it and when the water should have stopped it kept running. I unplugged the washer from the power and the water kept running. This told me the inlet valve was the issue and not an electronic issue. I stopped the water by closing the water valve manually. Replacing the inlet valve was very easy. Hardest part is moving the washer out of the laundry room. The videos online show very simple steps. Maybe 8 screws to remove and a couple of hoses and five electronic connectors. Take a photo of connectors before removing them to ensure you reconnect properly.

Disconnect elec., hot and cold water supply and drain hose. Lay washer on it's back. Removed nut from center housing. Removed screws from stater. Disconnected wires with flat screw driver at sensor and stater. Installes new sensor. Put everything back together. Washer works great. No LE code.

Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

After getting the model info from the back of the washer control panel, I searched Partselect for the water valve part. Easy process, It was here in 2 days. Unplug the machine, I took 2 screws out of the back of the control console and tipped it forward to reveal the valve assy. Turn off the water at the wall and disconnect the hot and cold lines from the washer . I removed the 3 screws holding the valve assy to the deck and with pliers disconnected the 2 clamped rubber lines and then with just finger pressure wiggled the valve from the remaining pipe connections. I swapped the 5 wire connectors to the new valve and wiggled it back into place. Clamped the 2 rubber lines again. and then connected the water inlet hoses to the new valve. Closed it up and called the laundry lady ( sorry honey) 30 minutes to Household harmony again!!

The problem was the valve suppling water to the bleach dispenser was not closing completely. This also caused some water leaking towards
the front of the washer. Replacing the entire valve assembly was very
easy. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, remove the 2 screws that attach the control panel, disconnect the water supplies, unplug the 5 solenoids, remove the hose clamps from the 2 hoses, remove the 3
screws that attach the valve assembly and remove it. Reassemble in reverse order, I did find that applying some water based personal lubricant to the 3 high pressure seals made assembly much easier.

Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.