Models > WRS26MF5ASB > Instructions

WRS26MF5ASB Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for WRS26MF5ASB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WRS26MF5ASB
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yearly maintenance

  • Customer: Antonio from Folsom CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 493 of 498 people found this instruction helpful
swap filter

cracked, broken door bins

  • Customer: Beverly from Jackso MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 460 of 462 people found this instruction helpful
The new bins and I installed them in the door. Nice to have door space again.

Shelf cracked because excessive weight put on it

  • Customer: GEORGE from GARDEN GROVE CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 442 of 521 people found this instruction helpful
Slip the old one off and replace the new one with just snapping it in place!

water leaking out of refrigerator

  • Customer: Jose from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 169 of 204 people found this instruction helpful
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Support studs were broken

  • Customer: Peter from Amherst NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 148 of 153 people found this instruction helpful
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer

  • Customer: Leo from Bentonville AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 124 of 158 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

had broken sheves on the doors and the crisper drawers weren't suported

  • Customer: Fred from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 172 of 326 people found this instruction helpful
The only difficult aspect of the job was getting the old shelf support stud removed from the refrigerator wall - the support was broken off too short to allow vise grips to hold it. I had to use two screwdrivers to get under and then pop out the stud to the point I could get the pliers to hold. Everything eles pretty much just "fell together" very easily.

icemaker stopped making ice

  • Customer: David from New Bern NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 104 of 123 people found this instruction helpful
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Ice-Maker and Water Dispenser not working.

  • Customer: Colin from Hollis NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 131 of 212 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.

Old refrigerator shelves broke.

  • Customer: Jorge from Roswell GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 84 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced with new parts... they just pop right in. Cheap plastic used by manufacturer gets brittle with exposure to low temperatures and over a mere 5 years all break off. Very annoying.

Refridgerator too cold adjustment no good.

  • Customer: Jack from Manteca CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 120 of 194 people found this instruction helpful
First I replaced the Defrost Thermostat on the coil and this did not fix the problem. So I ordered this new ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control)board.
It is not identical to the first ADC board and at least one feature the old ADC did was deleted from the function of the Fridge. Not sure why?
Because the board were different a new wiring harness was provided.
Step 1. Unplug the unit and remove the water filter.
Step 2. Remove the covers off of the unit on the top of the fridge using the 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" deep well socket with extension for the deeper inset fasteners. This exposes the wiring harness and the ADC board as well as the temperature controls.
step 3. Remove the screws for the ADC on the cover and remove the wiring harness from it. No need to note the wire's positions as the new ADC uses a different connector.
step 4. As you remove each connection of the wire harness from the unit replace that connection with then new harness connector to eliminate any confusion. Do each one. One by one until the old harness is completely loose and the new harness is completely installed.
step 5. Install new ADC which in my case was now enclosed in an orange case. Unlike the one I removed that was and open pcb.
Step 6. Replace covers using the 1/4" nut driver and 1/4" wrench.
Step 7. Replace filter and plug in unit.

Apparently there have been 4 versions of this ADC board through the years. My fridge was built in 2003 not long before I bought it.

water leaking(pouring) from the filter into the refrigerator

  • Customer: Michele from Red Oak TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 82 of 91 people found this instruction helpful
Pushed the button on the filter in the fridge, the cartridge popped out and in with the new. That simple. Prior to replacement the water was leaking, although it was still producing water and ice through the door. When the filter was out, no leaks, but no water and ice! Just needed a new filter.

Door was making a popping sound when opened and closed

  • Customer: Charles from Cypress TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 75 of 78 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewd the top hinge cove and removed two bolts from the hinge, lifted door off of the bottom hinge and laid the whole door on the floor using a beach towel to protect it from scratches. Unbolted the bottom hinge plate, replaced it with the new one. Then pulled out the old hinge bearing and replaced with a new one. Installed the door back on the bottom hinge while the magnet on the door strip held it place and rebolted the the upper hinge and reinstalled the hinge cover. All done in less than 10 minutes. No more popping sounds when I open and close the door!

Water actuator broke

  • Customer: Jonathan from Universal City TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 71 of 78 people found this instruction helpful
If you think you probably can't do this, you're like me... but you just had to try because you needed the part anyway right? This really was quite simple, a lot easier than it sounds from the description and saved me probably $75 I'd have had to pay a tech to do it. Just unplug fridge, yank that water spill tray out, yes yank, it's a bit hard to do that if you've not done it before. After that remove the 3 phillips head screws you just gained access to. Lift panel frame up then out. Disconnect wire harness plug and set that frame aside. Take out next screws exposed to free the unit. Tilt unit out and remove the two little screws and shims holding actuator in place. Remove broken one. Put new one in. Reverse all actions taken thus far. Plug fridge back in and have a drink of water like nothing ever happened. : ) You can do this!

"Paddle" on ice actuator broke off.

  • Customer: Ryan from Elk Grove CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 56 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
Slide off drip tray at bottom of ice/water compartment.

Remove the 3 screws along bottom edge of face plate. Slide face plate upwards slightly to disengage tabs holding top of face plate to fridge door. Pull face plate slightly away from fridge, reach behind plate, and disconnect wiring harness. Set face plate aside.

Remove 3 screws holding ice/water actuator mechanism to fridge door. Disconnect wiring harness on left side of actuator mechanism. This allows the left side of mechanism to swing outwards.

Looking down on top of mechanism, loosen the two screws holding the small, metal retaining plates for ice actuator. (The metal plates hold the ice actuator pivot pins in place in the actuator mechanism). Once the two screws are loosened, the metal plates can be moved to the side to free the ice actuator.

Remove old ice actuator and replace with new actuator. NOTE: Ensure the black ice door flap regulator (the thing with the gear teeth) stays engaged with the gear on the damping mechanism while installing the new ice actuator).

Move the metal retaining plates back in place over the ice actuator pivot pins and tighten both screws. Move the ice/water actuator mechanism back in place and re-connect the wiring harness on the left side. Re-install the 3 screws holding the entire mechanism in place.

Re-connect the wiring harness to the face plate and slide the tabs at the top of the plate into the holes in the fridge door. Slide face plate down and line up the 3 screw holes at the bottom of plate. Re-install the 3 screws. Re-install the drip tray. You're done!
All Instructions for the WRS26MF5ASB
1-15 of 629