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WRS26MF5AQ4 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for WRS26MF5AQ4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WRS26MF5AQ4
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yearly maintenance

  • Customer: Antonio from Folsom CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 500 of 506 people found this instruction helpful
swap filter

cracked, broken door bins

  • Customer: Beverly from Jackso MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 461 of 463 people found this instruction helpful
The new bins and I installed them in the door. Nice to have door space again.

Shelf cracked because excessive weight put on it

  • Customer: GEORGE from GARDEN GROVE CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 442 of 522 people found this instruction helpful
Slip the old one off and replace the new one with just snapping it in place!

water leaking out of refrigerator

  • Customer: Jose from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 177 of 214 people found this instruction helpful
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Support studs were broken

  • Customer: Peter from Amherst NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 157 of 162 people found this instruction helpful
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer

  • Customer: Leo from Bentonville AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 129 of 163 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

icemaker stopped making ice

  • Customer: David from New Bern NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 108 of 127 people found this instruction helpful
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

had broken sheves on the doors and the crisper drawers weren't suported

  • Customer: Fred from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 173 of 327 people found this instruction helpful
The only difficult aspect of the job was getting the old shelf support stud removed from the refrigerator wall - the support was broken off too short to allow vise grips to hold it. I had to use two screwdrivers to get under and then pop out the stud to the point I could get the pliers to hold. Everything eles pretty much just "fell together" very easily.

Ice-Maker and Water Dispenser not working.

  • Customer: Colin from Hollis NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 133 of 215 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.

Refridgerator too cold adjustment no good.

  • Customer: Jack from Manteca CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 123 of 199 people found this instruction helpful
First I replaced the Defrost Thermostat on the coil and this did not fix the problem. So I ordered this new ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control)board.
It is not identical to the first ADC board and at least one feature the old ADC did was deleted from the function of the Fridge. Not sure why?
Because the board were different a new wiring harness was provided.
Step 1. Unplug the unit and remove the water filter.
Step 2. Remove the covers off of the unit on the top of the fridge using the 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" deep well socket with extension for the deeper inset fasteners. This exposes the wiring harness and the ADC board as well as the temperature controls.
step 3. Remove the screws for the ADC on the cover and remove the wiring harness from it. No need to note the wire's positions as the new ADC uses a different connector.
step 4. As you remove each connection of the wire harness from the unit replace that connection with then new harness connector to eliminate any confusion. Do each one. One by one until the old harness is completely loose and the new harness is completely installed.
step 5. Install new ADC which in my case was now enclosed in an orange case. Unlike the one I removed that was and open pcb.
Step 6. Replace covers using the 1/4" nut driver and 1/4" wrench.
Step 7. Replace filter and plug in unit.

Apparently there have been 4 versions of this ADC board through the years. My fridge was built in 2003 not long before I bought it.

Old refrigerator shelves broke.

  • Customer: Jorge from Roswell GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 84 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced with new parts... they just pop right in. Cheap plastic used by manufacturer gets brittle with exposure to low temperatures and over a mere 5 years all break off. Very annoying.

water leaking(pouring) from the filter into the refrigerator

  • Customer: Michele from Red Oak TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 82 of 91 people found this instruction helpful
Pushed the button on the filter in the fridge, the cartridge popped out and in with the new. That simple. Prior to replacement the water was leaking, although it was still producing water and ice through the door. When the filter was out, no leaks, but no water and ice! Just needed a new filter.

The ice dispenser would only dispense crushed ice, Fridge door cluncked when opening and closing

  • Customer: Al from Shakopee MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 62 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
For the ice dispenser, I read a blog that pointed me right to the solenoid that controls the linkage for the crushed /cubed ice.I first unplugged the fridge. Then removed the ice maker basket. Removed 2 ea screws from each side of the supports of the lower brackets. Then lifted the tray assy off the mounting bracket, moving the front of the bracket down you can then unhook the power/control connector.
The tray then comes right out. Once out you remove two screws that hold a plastic plate on. With this removed you can see the solenoid that actuates the linkage for the ice cube and crushed ice. You then remove 2 ea machine screws that hold the solenoid in. Remove grd. wire. and pull power wires off tabs. You can then remove the solenoid by sliding it out of the plastic retainer. With it out you install the new plunger and reassemble in the reverse order. 15 mins tops.

The main Refidgerator door, made a cluncking sound. Lube didn't help. I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 10 mins

bottom of fridg. would not get cool. Temp was 50-60degrees. The freezer compartment worked so I knew it was not the compressor.

  • Customer: Larry from Carthage NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 54 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)

Refrigerator would sometimes freeze everything

  • Customer: donna from brandon FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 50 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.
All Instructions for the WRS26MF5AQ4
1-15 of 693