WRS23MW3AWS Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

Pull refrigerator away from wall, being careful not to kink or break water line to ice maker, unplug refrigerator. Using 1/4" nutdriver, remove cardboard lower rear panel, bottom lifts out. Fan and motor are now directly in front of you, grasp the moter to stablize it, and using your other hand, pull fan hub from motor shaft. Be sure motor shaft is clean before reinstalling new fan blade, press new bladr onto motor shaft, until center of blade is centered on outlet side of fan housing. spin blade by hand to insure clearance. Plug refrigerator in and observe operation of fan, refrigerator needs to be calling for cooling for this fan to operate. Reinstall cardboard panel and move refrigerator back into position.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

take out screws front control panel ,then screws on left panel holding control unit. had to clean up plastic she got a little toasty. unhooked control unit replaced with new and reassembled. The real story is in your excellent web site easy to find exactly what I need and with prompt shipping, I was back in service quicker than having someone come out and repair.

Great Job
Jeff Baker

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

The broken fan made my refrigerator sound like a lawn mower I pulled the refrigerator out of it's nook and disconnected the power, removed the back panel with my battery powered drill motor, slid the old fan off of motor shaft, slid the new fan back on ran it to make sure the problem was corrected. The entire repair took less than fifteen minutes and was as simple as it could be. Please be careful when cleaning your coil, as the fan is easily damaged if you should contact it.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Pulled the old gasket off and put new gasket/seal on by pressing firmly into slot.

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

First I removed the plastic drip pan that catches the ice and water. There were two or three screws that had to be removed. Next I removed the old broken actuator and put the new one in. There were two more screws to be removed to replace the old actuator. Those screws were pretty small and hard to get out. Other than that, the new actuator went right in and was working in no time. Overall a pretty easy project.

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!