WPDH8800J3MG General Electric Washer - Instructions

Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.

Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck!

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

I Disconnected power to machine and shut off water supply lines. Move washer away from wall and removed supply lines.(good time to replace them if older than five years) Where these supply lines attach to the washer is the water valve you are replacing. There are 3 screws on the back of the cabinet lid, then on the front 3 more screws hold the lid to the plastic control housing. After removing screws you need to slide the lid up and towards the back of the machine app. 1 1/2"to 2" before you can raise the lid up and off of the machine. Once the lid is off it is just one screw holding the valve, and a hose clamp that needs removed from the end of the valve. Then slide valve to the right (looking from front of machine to the back.) I left the wires attached to the old valve,installed the new valve then reattached the wires in the same order as they were on the old valve to avoid confusion. (note valve must slide into place to get screw to line up.)assemble is reverse of the above steps. Don't forget to level machine. Be careful attaching water supply lines plastic valve threads can strip without much effort.

I unplugged the power cord from the wall outlet, then I had to remove the top panel off the machine by removing the three phillips screws holding the back trim strip to the front top of the machine, than I removed the three 1/4 inch head screws holding the top panel found at the back top of machine. I now pulled the top pannel to the rear and removed the top pannel. Then I used pliers to squeeze open and slide clear the small clamp to the rubber hose to the valve and removed the hose end to the valve. Then I carefully pulled off the four wire connectors to the two solenoids of the valve.
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08

First I unpluged electrical cord. removed the 4 screws
on the back panel. I then loosen the (1) motor bolt that
you can adjust for tightness after you put the new
drive belt on the round pulley. Make sure the bolt in the center of the round pulley is tight. The round pulley should not wabble. Make sure not to over tighten the drive belt on the motor. A slight play is fine. Put back
panel on and plug electrical cord. Run washer cycle
on and check. Should be OK.

Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.

It. Was awasome the part fit great and it was even deliverd sooner than expected thank you

I followed the steps in the You Tube video on this topic. Search for "washing machine repair - replacing the drive pulley" in your favorite search engine. The video is very well done and it is a simple fix. Before I put on the new drive pulley and nut, I vacuumed up and then wiped down the black dust around the drive pulley shaft (as well as on the inside floor of the washer) to make sure the drive pulley slid onto the shaft using the hand banging method described in the video (dust was likely from the belt due to the excessive movement of the drive pulley). While it may be possible to tighten the nut without a torque wrench, I personally had trouble judging the appropriate 44 ft lbs of torque without it (i.e. my snug required more than a quarter turn per the optional instructions). The torque wrench provided me with the assurance that I installed the drive pulley correctly.Two of my shocks were leaking slightly so I assumed that was the primary issue and replaced all 4 at quite a hefty cost. It helped with the noise but not significantly. If you do have a loud noise during the spin cycle, do yourself a favor and check the play in the drive pulley and look for the black dust before you diagnose the problem to be something else. The online diagnostic tool showed the drive pulley as being the highest probability of being the issue so, sadly, I have no excuses...

Part came quickly, was exactly what I needed, 2 minutes later, washing clothes again.

Followed the directions from this site shown on you tube.

Flipped washer on side
Did repair from bottom
Really easy repair

Unplug machine.
Remove band from front bellows by prying the spring at 6:00 o:clock loose.
Pull back bellows on right side.
Remove 3 torx screws and gently pull door each lock assembly out. Unplug 3 wire harness connectors and plug into new latch lock in same order.
Screw new latch lock in place and replace bellows and band.
Done

Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.

Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.