WOC54EC0AW00 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Part No. PS11766760
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. This is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.

Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.

It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.

After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.

This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.

Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.

After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.

Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.

Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.

btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.

There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Easiest repair I've made in years. Didn't even need a tool.
One end slides into a hole in the ceiling of the microwave/convection over, move the heating element into place and turn the mounting bracket and you're done.

Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 hands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.

Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TOUCH THE REPLACEMENT LAMP WITHOUT WEARING CLEAN GLOVES. FILM OR FINGER PRINTS ON THE LAMP GLASS WILL CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE LAMP.

Remove the 4 screws on right and left mounting rails that hold the unit to the kitchen cabinet.
Remove the oven door
Remove the chrome oven vent strip below the oven door. This allows a pry point beneath the combo microwave oven assembly to lift up the unit while pulling it out. (Assembly weighs 250 pounds)
Pull the unit out from the cabinet housing about 2-3 inches to reveal the right and left sides and the 4 screws holding the the control panel.
Remove the 4 control panel screws and pull off the face of the control panel
Remove the 2 harness connectors and the ground wire holding the control panel to the unit.
Unclip the circuit board above the lamp connector and slide it back out of the way. The lamp is now accessible.
Remove the lamp spring holding the lamp to the cabinet.
Remove the old lamp
Install the new lamp using clean gloves
Reassemble in reverse order.

Initially I called kitchenaid and the representative suggested I call one of thier designated repair guys to come out for 120.00. Fortunately, I got the part number and model and found it on this website. It was so easy to replace!! Just fit it in the designated opening and twist it until secure. So glad I did not call out the repair man!!

Hired a contractor to perform the repair. He didn't show up. Went to Lowes, where the item was purchased, and they didn't know anyone who serviced the unit or where to find a technical manual. Built a platform to hold the unit and my wife and I isolated the power, verified no current, and slid the unit out of the wall to see what was involved.

Found the technical manual in a pouch on the side of the oven and went through the checklist. Found through online research that about 60% of the failures were the inverter, 30% were the Control Board, and 10 or so % were the Magnetron. Made the mistake of getting parts based upon failure rate rather than having someone technically qualified perform a detailed diagnosis. So, after replacing the high frequency failure parts without success, got a well- qualified technical electronics person to help. He did the diagnosis and determined that the problem was in the magnetron unit and was probably the "Thermister." The Thermister is the absolute cheapest part of the four involved with the exception of the high voltage diode, which is on one of the boards already replaced.

The Thermister is probably the part needed since it is on backorder for a couple of weeks by all the online parts suppliers checked.

At this point, we will replace the Thermister and return the Magnetron if that works. If not we will replace the Magnetron. When that is done we will have completely rebuilt the unit and it should be good for another 4 or five years.

The repairs are relatively easy. The boards are static sensitive and both the main board and replacement parts need grounded. There is also a capacitor that needs to be discharged before working on the unit. Total weight of the combo unit is about 70 pounds but it is bulky so a helper to lift the unit down to work on the microwave is necessary to safely remove the built in unit and to replace it.

Some lessons learned:
1. Combo oven units do not have separate ovens and microwave components.
2. When the power is off on the oven combo unit, all of our electric cooking appliances were out of service - including the glass cooktop.
3. Cost of the individual cookiing units - oven, microwave - is much less than the cost of the combination unit.
4. Ovens have a 20 year life expectancy, microwaves have a 5 year life expectancy. Therefore, think carefully about the combo unit vs individual units during construction.
5. There is a screw behind the wiring harness that cannot be accessed with the nut driver very well. This holds the cover on. An 8mm wrench worked well to remove this.
6. Parts described in the manual are not the same as part nomenclature on the online repair manuals or parts listings, nor are part numbers the same.
7. PartSelect.com verified the part nomenclature and identified their part number for the components listed in the Service Manual with the combo unit. I cannot speak highly enough for the assistance and support we received from them while ordering parts.
8. The most difficult part of this entire operation, now in week 4, is finding the service manual, identification of the defective part, and obtaining the parts. (Paying for them is not a joy either.)

Recommendations:
1. Get a well qualified electronic person to help identify breakers which need isolated, go through the diagnostics, and accurately identify the part needed before buying any parts.
2. Plan to be without all connected appliances while the oven combo is locked out of the breaker panel
3. When building a new home have the built in oven and microwave installed in separate cabinets and wired separately with individual power and control circuits.

All the best in your repairs.

Mike

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

REMOVED PANEL COVER [ 4 SCREWS]
UNSCREWED 2 SCREWS ON LATCH DOOR
ON THIS MODEL THE PART WAS IN TOO TIGHT OF QUARTERS SO I HAD TO LOOSEN A TOP PANEL SO I COULD RAISE PART HIGH
ENOUGH TO RELEASE IT FROM A CATCH AT THE BACK OF THE PART. PUSH PART BACK, RAISE AND PULL FORWARDS.
REMOVED 4 WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND ATTACHING TO NEW PART. REPLACED PART, TIGHTEN TOP PANEL AND REPLACED PANEL COVER.

NOT BAD FOR A 91 YEAR OLD

I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.