Models > WM2780B > Instructions

WM2780B Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for WM2780B parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WM2780B
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 56 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.

  • Customer: Paul from Mickleton NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleaning as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.

Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!

With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.

Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.

Best of luck!

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

1998 oven unit flashing F3

  • Customer: chris from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4

  • Customer: Edward from Juliustown NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.

  • Customer: Christine from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting

  • Customer: Joseph from Wappingers Falls NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

Electronic panel

  • Customer: Kathy from Pflugerville TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
My oven didn't work anymore and it was beeping terribly, with a FO code on it, which meant "Control Panel problem" the only way I could stop the beeping, and still use my microwave on the top, but on same braker switch, was to disconnect a ribbon like wire.. After ordering a new control pad, I called a repair person and asked him, "how do I know for sure if it is the control pad, and not the touch panel which the pad is attached to.? He said the test that he would have done was to disconnect the ribbon like wire and if it stopped beeping, it was the touch pad. Not the control panel... That little sentence saved me $250, so I just returned the panel and ordered the touch pad......it was a easy great fix .!!! I'm so proud of myself for trying and saving money too !

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

F1 code and oven wouldn't operate

  • Customer: Robbie from Hillsboro TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.

  • Customer: Thomas from Clarksville MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Replacing the bulb in the freezer side

  • Customer: Yafa (and David) from Bothell WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
All Instructions for the WM2780B
1-15 of 123