WM27460W Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Removed the 4 phillip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel (and you probably could skip this step).
Next, I removed the knobs from the front of the display panel.
Then I removed the 4 phillip head screws that were located (1 each) behind the knobs.
Finally, I removed the 4 hex head screws from the bottom of the front panel.
You caan then remove the panel a few inches and remove the two cable connectors.
The trick part is to get the flat ribbin cable disconnected. If you squeeze the two small tabs (one on each end of the connector), the connector moves up and spreads open to CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable.
The clock assembly has just two hex head screws holding it in place. Remove them, and reassemble everything in reverse.
If you did everything correctly, you should have a very bright stove clock again!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

Was about to spend 2000 on new oven and decided to check here. At least 15 stories with same problem and solved. Add one more.

Only thing new to me was ribbon connector. Didn't really pay attention when I disconnected from the old assembly. When you squeeze the ends of the connector, part of the connector itself rises up to release the ribbon cable. Remember this when reinserting the ribbon cable on new assembly. If I hadn't followed the "If you have to force it, it ain't right" rule it could have gone bad.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

First I turned off the electricity to the stove.
I then removed the 4 burner dials from the front panel. Then I removed the 8 screws under the front panel. Removed the triangle side pieces - 1 screw each. Slowly pulled the panel down and out and turned it face down so there was easy access to the back of the digital clock. Unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the clock and replaced it. New clock worked perfect. NOTE: Included in the repair - I cleaned and repainted where there was grease and rust.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

It was so easy....a cave man could do it.

Power off to oven, 2 screws, swapped the elements, 2 screws back in. Keep the original screws. The only delay we had was the right screw was a little hard to "start".
Once we had it tightened up, we turned the breaker back on and wah la....we had our oven back!

Shipping was much faster than expected!

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

I did this job myself, but it might be handy to have a helper to assist in holding the control panel during unplug and replug stages of the process. Also strongly suggest you read through these and other posted instructions BEFORE getting started.

Kill Circuit Breaker Power To Unit.
Pull Four Burner Control Knobs off front panel.
Unscrew Phillips Head Screws from under each knob. (Be careful not to strip screw heads, I applied pretty firm pressure on screw driver to avoid stripping).
Open Oven door.
Remove 4 Phillips screws on trim piece under control panel and remove trim piece.
Unscrew 1 small Phillips screw on each side of panel to loosen plastic side trim pieces.
Use socket to remove 4 hex head screws holding control panel in place.
Gently pivot control panel top downward to access the circuit board panel. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW CONTROL PANEL TO HANG BY FRAGILE CONNECTING CABLES!!!
GENTLY unplug the two white connector cables from the board. There is a locking tab on both that you can release with a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver while gently pulling the connector upward. (These connectors snap to lock more easily when you eventually re-assemble to the replacement board).
VERY GENTLY unplug the ribbon cable. This was a bit confusing to me at first, but if you gently squeeze the two very small tabs on both sides of the black connector, you can gently raise the center body of the connector upwards about 1/8 inch. (You might find it helpful to practice how this mechanism functions on your replacement part BEFORE you do the disassembly, it's really pretty simple once you see how it works). This will take the gripping pressure off the ribbon itself and you can gently wiggle the ribbon out free from the connector taking note of the two very small alignment holes in the ribbon connector as you do so.
Now with all cables free use a socket to remove 2 hex head screws holding the circuit board to the control panel.
Now install the replacement board by simply doing all above in reverse. Take care to line up cable connections to the board properly, noting the two alignment holes in the ribbon cable to tabs in the black connector. All three connections should snap in easily without undue force.
Your range display should be good as new.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..