Models > WM27460W > Instructions

WM27460W Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for WM27460W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WM27460W
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 71 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Lost all clock and timer display

  • Customer: John from Kuna ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 55 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 4 phillip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel (and you probably could skip this step).
Next, I removed the knobs from the front of the display panel.
Then I removed the 4 phillip head screws that were located (1 each) behind the knobs.
Finally, I removed the 4 hex head screws from the bottom of the front panel.
You caan then remove the panel a few inches and remove the two cable connectors.
The trick part is to get the flat ribbin cable disconnected. If you squeeze the two small tabs (one on each end of the connector), the connector moves up and spreads open to CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable.
The clock assembly has just two hex head screws holding it in place. Remove them, and reassemble everything in reverse.
If you did everything correctly, you should have a very bright stove clock again!

Clock dimmed to very low, oven temp unreadable

  • Customer: Thomas from Moncks Corner SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 32 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Was about to spend 2000 on new oven and decided to check here. At least 15 stories with same problem and solved. Add one more.

Only thing new to me was ribbon connector. Didn't really pay attention when I disconnected from the old assembly. When you squeeze the ends of the connector, part of the connector itself rises up to release the ribbon cable. Remember this when reinserting the ribbon cable on new assembly. If I hadn't followed the "If you have to force it, it ain't right" rule it could have gone bad.

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Clock and all the readouts went "black". Stove still worked but no visible readouts.

  • Customer: Donald from Sausalito CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the electricity to the stove.
I then removed the 4 burner dials from the front panel. Then I removed the 8 screws under the front panel. Removed the triangle side pieces - 1 screw each. Slowly pulled the panel down and out and turned it face down so there was easy access to the back of the digital clock. Unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the clock and replaced it. New clock worked perfect. NOTE: Included in the repair - I cleaned and repainted where there was grease and rust.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

baking element burnt out

  • Customer: Kathy from Powder Springs GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
It was so easy....a cave man could do it.

Power off to oven, 2 screws, swapped the elements, 2 screws back in. Keep the original screws. The only delay we had was the right screw was a little hard to "start".
Once we had it tightened up, we turned the breaker back on and wah la....we had our oven back!

Shipping was much faster than expected!

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

  • Customer: John from Harvard MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Anyone got any ideas?

Display Fading to Black - Clock & Oven Temp Unreadable

  • Customer: Robert from Portsmouth NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I did this job myself, but it might be handy to have a helper to assist in holding the control panel during unplug and replug stages of the process. Also strongly suggest you read through these and other posted instructions BEFORE getting started.

Kill Circuit Breaker Power To Unit.
Pull Four Burner Control Knobs off front panel.
Unscrew Phillips Head Screws from under each knob. (Be careful not to strip screw heads, I applied pretty firm pressure on screw driver to avoid stripping).
Open Oven door.
Remove 4 Phillips screws on trim piece under control panel and remove trim piece.
Unscrew 1 small Phillips screw on each side of panel to loosen plastic side trim pieces.
Use socket to remove 4 hex head screws holding control panel in place.
Gently pivot control panel top downward to access the circuit board panel. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW CONTROL PANEL TO HANG BY FRAGILE CONNECTING CABLES!!!
GENTLY unplug the two white connector cables from the board. There is a locking tab on both that you can release with a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver while gently pulling the connector upward. (These connectors snap to lock more easily when you eventually re-assemble to the replacement board).
VERY GENTLY unplug the ribbon cable. This was a bit confusing to me at first, but if you gently squeeze the two very small tabs on both sides of the black connector, you can gently raise the center body of the connector upwards about 1/8 inch. (You might find it helpful to practice how this mechanism functions on your replacement part BEFORE you do the disassembly, it's really pretty simple once you see how it works). This will take the gripping pressure off the ribbon itself and you can gently wiggle the ribbon out free from the connector taking note of the two very small alignment holes in the ribbon connector as you do so.
Now with all cables free use a socket to remove 2 hex head screws holding the circuit board to the control panel.
Now install the replacement board by simply doing all above in reverse. Take care to line up cable connections to the board properly, noting the two alignment holes in the ribbon cable to tabs in the black connector. All three connections should snap in easily without undue force.
Your range display should be good as new.

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

Oven door wouldn't close completely

  • Customer: William from Statesville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

  • Customer: Keith from Canyon Lake CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

1998 oven unit flashing F3

  • Customer: chris from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
All Instructions for the WM27460W
1-15 of 233