Models > WM2677HSM > Instructions

WM2677HSM LG Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WM2677HSM parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WM2677HSM
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Washing maching wouldn't drain

  • Customer: Jorge from Apple Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 103 of 130 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.

LE Error Message and won't spin drum properly

  • Customer: Mark from Harrisburg PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 69 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Worn bearings

  • Customer: Anthony from Crystal Lake IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
To replace the bearings a complete disassembly of the washer was required. After pulling the tube assembly from the cabinet and separating the tube enclosure halves and removing the rotor and stator, since the washer uses direct drive, a gear puller was required to push the drive shaft through the old bearings since they didn’t separate easily as seen in several YouTube videos. After removing the tube assembly it is recommended that you also separate from the spider, which contains the drive shaft, from the tube itself since a significant amount of sediment had caked inside the indentations on the inside of the spider. Since the front bearing, part number 4280FR4048D, was no longer available I used an NTN double sealed bearing, part number 6306LLUC3/L627. The only other tricky aspect of the repair was pushing the drive shaft through the new bearings since pushing it by hand did not produce enough force to get it through to expose enough of the shaft on the other side to be able to reconnect the rotor. The solution was to pull the shaft through rather than pushing it. To do this I placed a 1 3/4 inch drive socket over the outer ring of the rear bearing, and then I used a 3 inch 10mm x 1.50 mm bolt through the drive socket with enough large washers to use as spacers between the bolt head and the drive socket. I then threaded about a half inch of the bolt into the center of the drive shaft by hand to remove any gap between the bolt head and the washers. As I turned the bolt clockwise with a 17mm drive socket wrench the bolt pulled the drive shaft through the bearings with ease. I did follow the manufacturer’s recommendation to replace the seal between the two tube enclosure halves and the three dampers with new ones since they do eliminate much of the vibration during the spin cycle. I also replace the top bellows since I noticed that a large hole had been formed on it by rubbing against the inlet hoses which are situated directly above. The repair took a week only because I had to wait for parts.

Hot water was dripping onto sensor and caused it to stop working.

  • Customer: Lisa from Fayetteville AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Took out old sensor and put in new one.

Not pumping out water

  • Customer: Patrick from Ronkonkoma NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

Bellows had developed a small hole

  • Customer: Verle from Malcolm NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Cloged Drain

  • Customer: Darryl from chicago IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.

Pool of water under washer after a run

  • Customer: Daraius from AUSTIN TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

It was torn and leaking.

  • Customer: Denise from Show Low AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

h2o filled w/o stopping

  • Customer: sherman from BROKEN ARROW OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

not pump water out

  • Customer: dung from nashville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Basic skill

Hot Water Inlet valve (solinoid valve leaking)

  • Customer: MARVIN from MARYVILLE TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

Washer not spinning and giving error message OE

  • Customer: Allan from Virginia Beach VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is common for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.

would not pump the water dry

  • Customer: Jinjer from Colorado City AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
greate very easy and the parts fit awsome the shiping was fast and easy very satified

OE CODE - The washer machine would not drain

  • Customer: Gustavo from Ukiah CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.
All Instructions for the WM2677HSM
1-15 of 64